Saturday, June 13, 2015

Super-Cute Blouse - Vogue 9067

I might have to eat my hat if I make one more Vogue Pattern, and it turns out scrumptious after the first muslin. But before I get ahead of myself, I do have a few things to say about how this pattern is not perfect if you are shorter than five foot three inches. 

This was purchased on sale from Denver fabrics for about $3 a yard. It is also wide at 60 inches. It is a light-weight cotton similar to a voile or a lawn. It drapes beautifully, and is one of the most successful muslins I have made thus far.
It's always a good day when the muslin turns out.
This pattern is drafted extra long and wide. If you are close to pettite, everything will be swimming on you. For me, it turned out a bit wider than I would like, but it was still acceptable. I shortened the bodice by two inches, and the blouse still sat below my high hip, and even lower in the back because due to its "high-low" cut.

The pattern comes in several cuts, but I bought it primarily for the plain white blouse version below with the ruffled sleeve. This pattern also comes with pants suffering from the same problem...too long, and too wide. I took a good five inches on the leg off, but after sewing the muslin, I needed to also take up a couple inches from the hip area both in length and in width. This pattern is obviously best suited for someone above average in height. Otherwise, a lot of adjusting is necessary. I made the large, but I think I could have made a medium or even a small. Unfortunately, I did not have a smaller option.

The actual sewing was easy. Bear in mind that the least amount of waste happens if using 45' wide fabric. The pants on the other hand, would need 58" wide to get both pieces on a single folded panel.

I didn't have matching light pink-coral thread for the blouse, so I used a standard ivory.  I hand stitch all the visible seams with some embroidery thread of a similar (but not exact) color. A lot of hand work usually annoys me, but I felt especially patient that day. The result was a beautifully stitched blouse that looked more bespoke than machine-made.

I hand stitched the keyhole facing which made it easier to ease around the curve. 
Right side of the back keyhole neck. Not perfect, but I think it would have looked worse if machine stitched.
I also hand stitched the neck bias facing too.

I made my first a semi-tailored linen jacket in high school. At the time, my then home economics teacher insisted that I put in the lining (after I sewed the sleeves on) completely by hand. I remember being really mad at her at the time. But to her credit, she taught me how to sew an invisible hem that I still use today.
Hand hemmed was performed on the sleeve as well.
These are my favorite hand sewing tools. I don't remember where I bought the thread, but I've had it in my toolkit for many years. It's a beautiful silk embroidery thread from Asia (maybe Japan).

Silk thread, beeswax, and Bohin hand-sewing needles.
This is my first packet of Bohin needles. I like the fact that the top of the eye of the needle is flatter, which makes pushing the needle through fabric easier. I never knew this would be an important feature in a needle until I discovered it.