Saturday, August 8, 2015

Late Summer Cotton Lace Dress - Vogue 9062

This is another piece from my last fabric stash swap! (Thanks Ali!) The fabric was a bit unruly to sew due to the loose weave. But it was surprisingly comfortable when I tried it on before I inserted the lining. The fabric is more crochet than delicate lace, and the extra layer of weight made it more of a Spring or late Summer piece. The lining was made by combining silk organza and ivory cotton. See below for more assembly photos.

Keeping the back pattern aligned was challenging. It DID stretch along the back seam. Luckily, I did not need to install a zipper. I had to rip out the back and reposition the pattern again before sewing. It was so frustrating.

I really like my little faux crystal button.
This is one of those patterns with adjustable cup sizes. If you remember, my Frida Kahlo tribute linen dress had the same option, and the cup size ran pretty big for me. I cut it down to a B cup, but made the dart for a size 18 instead of a 16. I thought this was a good compromise since I don't really wear supportive or push-up bras. I also shortened the sleeve by half the length, and omitted the ruffle. This pattern did not really was a Very Easy Vogue pattern. I am considering using this pattern for the guipure lace top. All I need to do is shorten the tunic version. But before I do, I have an eyelet cotton top I want to make first. I swear it will be my final muslin before the guipure. Besides, I can't wear guipure right is too darn hot and humid around here.

I shortened the sleeve by half, and omitted the ruffle.
Here are some photos of how I made the lining. I wanted as much lace to show on the skin without it being too sheer on the main parts of my body. Adding a solid white lining would have hidden the lace, turning a once delicate pattern into an even stark white. This is why wearing beige or ivory underneath white is more natural looking.

I cut the lining very short to show more lace at the hem, and made an organza silk upper bodice and neckline. Using ivory cotton for the body of the dress, provided the right modesty coverage while the organza made the main lining look like it was floating magically on the body.

Dress lining.
You can barely see the silk organza. I also used a very light grey
bias binding for the neckline. I really like the subtle contrast.
To make the lining, I coped the front and back of the dress pattern.
Next, I cut the top of the bodice off and added seam allowances to cut areas.

This is what the first version of the lining looked like. I ended up not using the base organza bottom hem. I also replaced this first version, made of synthetic organza with the proper silk kind. 

Given the limited pattern pieces, there really wasn't much sewing. Most of my time was spent designing and stitching the lining. I certainly feel a lot more confident about making linings for lace now. Happy sewing!