tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72100162664183381962024-03-13T09:58:57.423-07:00Sewing On My Kitchen TableSewing and other shenanigans...Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17641712703027646200noreply@blogger.comBlogger76125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-40279094472739367582015-08-08T01:58:00.001-07:002015-08-08T01:58:58.346-07:00Late Summer Cotton Lace Dress - Vogue 9062<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaIXV8cL5IQ/VcWs71IWzSI/AAAAAAAALNI/ZVCGKWUzsQo/s1600/IMG_20150803_193603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaIXV8cL5IQ/VcWs71IWzSI/AAAAAAAALNI/ZVCGKWUzsQo/s640/IMG_20150803_193603.jpg" width="366" /></a></div>
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This is another piece from my last fabric stash swap! (Thanks Ali!) The fabric was a bit unruly to sew due to the loose weave. But it was surprisingly comfortable when I tried it on before I inserted the lining. The fabric is more crochet than delicate lace, and the extra layer of weight made it more of a Spring or late Summer piece. The lining was made by combining silk organza and ivory cotton. See below for more assembly photos.</div>
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Keeping the back pattern aligned was challenging. It DID stretch along the back seam. Luckily, I did not need to install a zipper. I had to rip out the back and reposition the pattern again before sewing. It was so frustrating.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6skss7CqHfw/VcWr3l7qP7I/AAAAAAAALNA/h7P-iDf_ugw/s1600/IMG_20150803_193732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6skss7CqHfw/VcWr3l7qP7I/AAAAAAAALNA/h7P-iDf_ugw/s320/IMG_20150803_193732.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I really like my little faux crystal button.</td></tr>
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This is one of those patterns with adjustable cup sizes. If you remember, my Frida Kahlo tribute linen dress had the same option, and the cup size ran pretty big for me. I cut it down to a B cup, but made the dart for a size 18 instead of a 16. I thought this was a good compromise since I don't really wear supportive or push-up bras. I also shortened the sleeve by half the length, and omitted the ruffle. This pattern did not disappoint...it really was a Very Easy Vogue pattern. I am considering using this pattern for the guipure lace top. All I need to do is shorten the tunic version. But before I do, I have an eyelet cotton top I want to make first. I swear it will be my final muslin before the guipure. Besides, I can't wear guipure right now...it is too darn hot and humid around here.<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0XsB9imc5Y/VcWqSEddtzI/AAAAAAAALMA/cyJyY4rjUfw/s1600/IMG_20150803_192911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0XsB9imc5Y/VcWqSEddtzI/AAAAAAAALMA/cyJyY4rjUfw/s400/IMG_20150803_192911.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I shortened the sleeve by half, and omitted the ruffle.</td></tr>
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Here are some photos of how I made the lining. I wanted as much lace to show on the skin without it being too sheer on the main parts of my body. Adding a solid white lining would have hidden the lace, turning a once delicate pattern into an even stark white. This is why wearing beige or ivory underneath white is more natural looking.<br />
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I cut the lining very short to show more lace at the hem, and made an organza silk upper bodice and neckline. Using ivory cotton for the body of the dress, provided the right modesty coverage while the organza made the main lining look like it was floating magically on the body.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress lining.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1zlN7RAhhYM/VcWvealhylI/AAAAAAAALNs/nD5d02TrFAk/s1600/IMG_20150803_194839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1zlN7RAhhYM/VcWvealhylI/AAAAAAAALNs/nD5d02TrFAk/s320/IMG_20150803_194839.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can barely see the silk organza. I also used a very light grey<br />bias binding for the neckline. I really like the subtle contrast.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LOaZdOFZ18M/VcWwEeAzUKI/AAAAAAAALN0/oGZ0ip0gLeU/s1600/IMG_20150725_152926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LOaZdOFZ18M/VcWwEeAzUKI/AAAAAAAALN0/oGZ0ip0gLeU/s400/IMG_20150725_152926.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To make the lining, I coped the front and back of the dress pattern.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dy4oEQBB1V4/VcWwESxC05I/AAAAAAAALN0/mYr57d7YmFw/s1600/IMG_20150725_154510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dy4oEQBB1V4/VcWwESxC05I/AAAAAAAALN0/mYr57d7YmFw/s320/IMG_20150725_154510.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next, I cut the top of the bodice off and added seam allowances to cut areas.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEd9OuMrGMU/VcWwEWKxHrI/AAAAAAAALN0/iWVdDATkcY8/s1600/IMG_20150725_210516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEd9OuMrGMU/VcWwEWKxHrI/AAAAAAAALN0/iWVdDATkcY8/s320/IMG_20150725_210516.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
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This is what the first version of the lining looked like. I ended up not using the base organza bottom hem. I also replaced this first version, made of synthetic organza with the proper silk kind. </div>
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Given the limited pattern pieces, there really wasn't much sewing. Most of my time was spent designing and stitching the lining. I certainly feel a lot more confident about making linings for lace now. Happy sewing!<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-5767800674594804042015-07-27T12:27:00.001-07:002015-07-27T12:27:48.495-07:00Simplicity 1364 Jiffy Vintage Blouse & Guipure Lace Dreams<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity Jiffy Vintage Pattern 1364 </td></tr>
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The next couple of projects are mainly pattern and fabric testing before I cut into my recently acquired Guipure lace AKA Venice lace. This Simplicity 1364 vintage-inspired blouse is the first of two patterns I hope to eventually use. After altering the tissue pattern, I cut straight into a Kaufman retro-inspired print I purchased several years back at Stonemountain & Daughter. This print also has quite a bit of stretch; a slightly forgiving option in case some areas are tight. As you can see, it turned out to be a wearable muslin using a woven. I am not so sure if this will work with the Guipure lace without some additional altering at the armscye.<br />
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I mostly associate lace with wedding wear, but I feel that there are really many possibilities. There was leather and lace in the 90s, lace and linen has always been a classic Spring pair, and now even with torn up boyfriend jeans.<br />
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A window shopping trip this past Spring was the inspiration for my sudden "party dress" themes. I found one RTW rack at a local shop filled with white Guipure lace blouse variations. They were simple lace pieces, no lining, zippers, or buttons. The blouse was meant to be worn over our underpinnings of choice...a clever idea for the consumer, and loads of production savings for the manufacturer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aab8mIEifpA/VbXgYcoquGI/AAAAAAAALGs/d20uJJv6xDk/s1600/IMG_20150723_162235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aab8mIEifpA/VbXgYcoquGI/AAAAAAAALGs/d20uJJv6xDk/s400/IMG_20150723_162235.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My future polyester guipure lace blouse fabric, one in white, and other in ivory. </td></tr>
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My pattern plans for my Guipure lace blouse is a boat neckline with trumpet sleeves. My sister Judy had an emerald green chiffon dress with exaggerated trumpet sleeves that I have always adored. She wore that dress on the airplane when she immigrated from Hong Kong. I had just turned four years old at the time, and my travel dress was a pink chiffon trimmed with none other than Guipure lace. How did I remember that?<br />
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After combing through the Simplicity pattern book last week, I could not find pattern that met my style needs. I suspect trumpet sleeves are not really in fashion. Simplicity 1364 has the boat neck, and the general body cut, but the sleeves are fitted. I could live without the trumpet sleeve, but a couple of inches of ease is necessary for fabric bulk. I am not sure about the zipper insert for Guipure lace. It might end up being more work than originally anticipated.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0V5oaOaV6s/VbXV_vDYJcI/AAAAAAAALGc/wJlk0N8AqpM/s1600/IMG_20150723_194143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0V5oaOaV6s/VbXV_vDYJcI/AAAAAAAALGc/wJlk0N8AqpM/s320/IMG_20150723_194143.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The back has a 15 inch zipper.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.simplicity.com/images/product/large/1364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.simplicity.com/images/product/large/1364.jpg" height="400" width="277" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I started with view A and ended up with C. BTW, I think B and C are the same. <br />Link to the pattern <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-11787-misses-vintage-jiffy-blouses-and-tie-belt.aspx" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</td></tr>
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Simplicity 1364 was cumbersome. It might have been my fault since I decided to sew Hong Kong seams on the inside. I also used an interfacing meant for men's shirt collars for the facing, which ended up being very stiff and slightly bulky. Although I love the print, I found that the stretch in the fabric slightly distorted my zipper placement. The added Spandex also made the fabric thicker, and too warm for the Summer. The fitted sleeves were tight, and my arm felt claustrophobic, which is why I sans the sleeves entirely. Hey...it's a muslin anyway! But who wouldn't want their projects to turn out the first time?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U1FXJaT4JNw/VbXV_mi-III/AAAAAAAALGc/UFuvsnvOEm0/s1600/IMG_20150724_145211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U1FXJaT4JNw/VbXV_mi-III/AAAAAAAALGc/UFuvsnvOEm0/s320/IMG_20150724_145211.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After setting the first sleeve, I felt it was tight, and the pattern a bit busy.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CSsWDTAyPiM/VbXV_mVTg8I/AAAAAAAALGc/DWZKNgeLrZE/s1600/IMG_20150725_134002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CSsWDTAyPiM/VbXV_mVTg8I/AAAAAAAALGc/DWZKNgeLrZE/s320/IMG_20150725_134002.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My unused sleeves. :-(</td></tr>
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If I attempt this blouse a second time, I would need to adjust the armhole out. Since I have already cut the pattern down in size, adjusting up at the arms is going to be more work than I would like. Simplicity patterns are going on sale again next week, so I'm picking up another one of these patterns, and starting all over. It is really a lot easier to start fresh than try to work around an already cut pattern. For $1.99, there's nothing to lose right? Right.<br />
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Here are samples of Guipure blouses that I like. Stay tuned for more testing news...and happy sewing!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.lanecrawford.com/A/A/Y/AAY771_fr_xl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media.lanecrawford.com/A/A/Y/AAY771_fr_xl.jpg" height="400" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wide short sleeve is a good option as well. But the lace<br />used in this cut is not really Guipure, but a whispier ribbed version.<br />(I just made up the word "whispier." It is not a typo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cdn1.picvpicimg.com/pics/4161955/white-oscar-de-la-renta-lace-cotton-blouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn1.picvpicimg.com/pics/4161955/white-oscar-de-la-renta-lace-cotton-blouse.jpg" height="400" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although I have my heart set on a boat neckline, this blouse<br />is pretty much right on the mark. I think I could live with a basic round neck too. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://thomasbuilifestyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/spring-20143monique-Lhuillier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://thomasbuilifestyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/spring-20143monique-Lhuillier.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stay tuned...a version of this dress is debuting on my next blog post!</td></tr>
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-66513491904991386282015-07-23T12:17:00.000-07:002015-07-23T12:17:55.076-07:00A Real Summer Dress - Butterick Vintage Dress B5209 & Gusset Hack<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After all the adjustments, this dress fits like a glove. I hand stitched the hem and the inside bodice lining.</td></tr>
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I was shopping with my sister when I stumbled across this novelty Swiss Dot cotton fabric. I really fell in love with its unique, vintage nature, while my sister thought it a bit dull. It does have an odd grey and pale yellow hue, but I think it only adds to its charm.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of the bodice. I used silk organza interlining on the wide waistband. It helps hold its shape.</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z98Fh1v0CJ0/VbEtLy3KbPI/AAAAAAAALAs/ShuG6lF0NFQ/s1600/IMG_20150715_174037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z98Fh1v0CJ0/VbEtLy3KbPI/AAAAAAAALAs/ShuG6lF0NFQ/s320/IMG_20150715_174037.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I cut the bodice in a size 16, but extended the waist all the way out to Size 20.</td></tr>
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Making a vintage dress was not on my sew list this Summer, but I have become very inspired since attending the History In Fashion exhibit. I took many chances with this project, and I did have several fitting issues with the pattern. First off...I did not make a muslin. I measured and cut the pattern cold turkey. After stitching and fitting the bodice, I discovered two things: the waist was slightly too long, and its width was too small on the waist bottom and too big on the waist top. What you say? Apparently, my back is a lot more curved than I realized. Since the halter back is cut so low, the curve rested at my arch. This is how I fixed it my fitting issue...<br />
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I added a gusset in the center to widen the base of the bodice but not the top. This gave me three more inches at the base of the waist. The zipper is on the left side, so this made it easier to adjust. You can see that the added fabric gave it a unique design detail in the back. Notice how the back is more curved now? I needed this to wrap properly around the curvature of my back without bunching.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GnLV6VFTmWs/VbEl8bOGsxI/AAAAAAAAK-g/kFUOQtl53Po/s1600/IMG_20150722_192602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GnLV6VFTmWs/VbEl8bOGsxI/AAAAAAAAK-g/kFUOQtl53Po/s400/IMG_20150722_192602.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gusset addition.</td></tr>
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I am terrible at adding gussets, which are usually cut in a triangle. I created a simpler way to add the piece without grief. It does include a center stitch line instead of a smooth triangle. I measured out a piece of fabric, including the seam allowances. I sewed both left and right back bodice pieces to the extension. <div>
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I have created a diagram which might help interested folks...<br /><div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aka32FwQ0Ko/VbE4Ujm_n3I/AAAAAAAALBU/QDX5bfGHSXk/s1600/IMG_20150723_115238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aka32FwQ0Ko/VbE4Ujm_n3I/AAAAAAAALBU/QDX5bfGHSXk/s640/IMG_20150723_115238.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then I folded the back in half at the center of the extension piece, and stitched down at an angle. This created a nice even triangle without having to mess with sewing the sharp tip of a regular gusset. Now, if you're really good at gussets, then you don't need to follow my instruction. But my gusset tips are always puckered. This method avoided the pucker, but does add a center seam. Be sure to trim the excess seam with pinking shears. </div>
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If you are not sure about the fitting, baste the angled stitch first and try it on before sewing. This kind of gusset lets you customize your waist as long as you have made the extension piece wide enough. In my case, it was exact. If the extension was too small, I would have had to cut another piece. Whew! (I can't believe I figured this out myself without Google.) </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GZr4WrJBe3E/VbE4eFDPB7I/AAAAAAAALBs/nKXt0QXSxyg/s1600/IMG_20150723_115330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GZr4WrJBe3E/VbE4eFDPB7I/AAAAAAAALBs/nKXt0QXSxyg/s640/IMG_20150723_115330.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is also my first side zipper. It's not invisible (thank goodness). The zipper has to be added to the main bodice, and then I pick-stitched the lining piece to the zipper. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yvrPU7dYRBI/VbEndXW1OII/AAAAAAAAK-s/jwO-euMHQrc/s1600/IMG_20150722_192529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yvrPU7dYRBI/VbEndXW1OII/AAAAAAAAK-s/jwO-euMHQrc/s320/IMG_20150722_192529.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left side zipper was not that easy to put in. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ra-5bNWY3M0/VbE5Qaeg5qI/AAAAAAAALCQ/V1YyfMRSKBc/s1600/IMG_20150723_115725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ra-5bNWY3M0/VbE5Qaeg5qI/AAAAAAAALCQ/V1YyfMRSKBc/s400/IMG_20150723_115725.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside lining stitched to zipper. </td></tr>
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The top was too big because one, I don't have fullness at the top part of my breast, which also makes for a lower breast dart, and two, the upper back curve is pretty sharp. What this means in a halter bodice is the peek-a-boo nature due to the extra space. I don't want people seeing more than necessary.<br />
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I had to adjust the dress in two ways. The first was by adding a dart at each of the back side pieces. I measured four inches from the side seam, and created a 2.5 inch dart. I had to make identical adjustments to the lining as well. See it here...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQ8tLuviaDQ/VbEn2g5fCBI/AAAAAAAAK-0/0Z5VwmelDjk/s1600/IMG_20150722_192631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQ8tLuviaDQ/VbEn2g5fCBI/AAAAAAAAK-0/0Z5VwmelDjk/s400/IMG_20150722_192631.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look closely to see the dart.</td></tr>
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Then I had to adjust the neck strap. The back of the neck strap piece is curved. I thought I was supposed attach a button, but the directions said to sew the left and right pieces together. I had difficulty doing this because of the curved pattern ends. Then after sewing them together, I realized that I needed to pull the straps up in order to fit the front bodice tighter. At this point I did not want to rip it apart because my delicate fabric was starting to fray. I just sewed the straps together at an angle, which tightened up the edge of the halter that wrapped around the breast and to the back. Then I just sewed the ugly seam down by hand. Since the seam is hidden...no biggie.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eUqnpwyZNVA/VbEpIgBDFtI/AAAAAAAAK_A/konIFsGtPC8/s1600/IMG_20150722_192652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eUqnpwyZNVA/VbEpIgBDFtI/AAAAAAAAK_A/konIFsGtPC8/s320/IMG_20150722_192652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vrspJ2HL9Xo/VbEpIjfTboI/AAAAAAAAK_A/zDfddVGOdGA/s1600/IMG_20150722_192646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vrspJ2HL9Xo/VbEpIjfTboI/AAAAAAAAK_A/zDfddVGOdGA/s320/IMG_20150722_192646.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks fine once it is back in place.</td></tr>
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Lastly, I cut one inch off the bottom of the waistband to accommodate my shorter length. This prevented crinkling in the midsection and automatically raised the hem slightly without losing fullness at the base of the skirt. By doing this I also saved time without having to redo the gathers from the top of the skirt.<br />
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I did not pay enough attention to the neck strap instructions beforehand. If I had to do it all over, I would have adjusted and sewn down the front neck strap after completing the gusset and dart adjustment before sewing the bodice lining. This would have prevented the exposed seam.<br />
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Here is a few shots of the pattern pieces to provide a preview to folks interested in sewing this dress.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rA4qDqCF5p8/VbEsloaEbPI/AAAAAAAALAc/c6uLz8ygel4/s1600/IMG_20150715_174202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rA4qDqCF5p8/VbEsloaEbPI/AAAAAAAALAc/c6uLz8ygel4/s400/IMG_20150715_174202.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kwK0LTM3WrA/VbErduaWQII/AAAAAAAAK_w/5Y6pO-RFcto/s1600/IMG_20150723_105458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kwK0LTM3WrA/VbErduaWQII/AAAAAAAAK_w/5Y6pO-RFcto/s320/IMG_20150723_105458.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U6Tg4JSeDXI/VbEsCXCn5AI/AAAAAAAALAI/ZRvjzVYbDj0/s1600/IMG_20150723_105617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U6Tg4JSeDXI/VbEsCXCn5AI/AAAAAAAALAI/ZRvjzVYbDj0/s320/IMG_20150723_105617.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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There was also the odd instruction to understitch the lining bodice, and it read "Understitch the lining as far as possible." What? As far as possible? Well, the instructions were correct. After sewing the lining bodice, there is not enough space to stay stitch the whole piece. This sorta irked me.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3WqIO5-bKBQ/VbEr_IDJBGI/AAAAAAAALAA/dnYTX8VTrrE/s1600/IMG_20150723_105643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3WqIO5-bKBQ/VbEr_IDJBGI/AAAAAAAALAA/dnYTX8VTrrE/s320/IMG_20150723_105643.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To line or not to line? The fabric is slightly sheer, but I don't want to add more poof to the waist gathers so I opted out. My only regret is that I did not finish the skirt seams. Overall though, I had many glitches which were due to my not paying enough attention. I don't count fitting issues glitches. I learned much about making halter dresses, and something new about the shape of my body. The result was a dress that fits like a glove!<br />
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Happy sewing!<br />
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The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-66278827808157248282015-07-23T00:26:00.002-07:002015-07-23T00:26:17.415-07:00The Cost Of Fashion<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xyjjU7eZMuI/Ue7YiH2MR-I/AAAAAAAACNg/YcztJFLywQQ/s1600/Pepe_in_bales.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xyjjU7eZMuI/Ue7YiH2MR-I/AAAAAAAACNg/YcztJFLywQQ/s1600/Pepe_in_bales.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large packages of unwanted used clothes are shipped into Haiti.</td></tr>
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Did you know that less than ten percent of our donated clothes actually make it to the racks of Goodwill? So where does all the rest go? Besides polluting our environment by creating large landfills of clothing that do not biodegrade, giant bundles of it are shipped to Haiti. Do a search on Pepe Industry in Haiti, and you will learn about how these unwanted wears have singlehandedly destroyed the sewing trade in that country.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/dam/assets/150522172821-true-cost-clothes-2-780x439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/dam/assets/150522172821-true-cost-clothes-2-780x439.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our clothes</td></tr>
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Did you know that learning how to sew our own clothes puts us in the category of "Slow Fashion" rather than "Fast Fashion?" I just learned the term "Fast Fashion" and the Pepe Industry in Haiti from a documentary called "The True Cost." It's been recently added to NetFlix, so hurry and watch it before it disappears. You can also learn more about the documentary <a href="http://truecostmovie.com/" target="_blank">HERE</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://media.treehugger.com/assets/images/2015/06/true_cost_movie.jpg.662x0_q70_crop-scale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://media.treehugger.com/assets/images/2015/06/true_cost_movie.jpg.662x0_q70_crop-scale.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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With fashion being very close to my heart...watching this documentary shattered it into little pieces. I was reminded that our American need for Fast Fashion from companies like H&M, WalMart and the like has wrecked havoc on Mother Earth, and continues to exploit people. Watch the video and see footage of people dying for a $20.00 blouse that many of us would not think twice about donating or tossing into the bin.<br />
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I have not been a fan of upcycling clothes, but watching this film has made me think twice, and perhaps more carefully about how else I can reuse my clothes rather than sending it to a landfill. I don't buy a lot of clothes these days, mostly because I don't need them. I've even questioned the amount of sewing I do, and how I'm contributing to the waste factor. The upside is, I couldn't make clothes as quickly as I can purchase them. What a relief.<br />
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One of the final points of the documentary that really got my goat was GMO cotton, and the amount of pesticides used on cotton fields. I've heard stories from my local organic farmers about how other farmers who acquired cotton land can't plant anything on soil due to contamination, and that it takes at least three or more years to turn the soil. We know all those pesticides are seeping into the ground water. Yes...in case you're wondering about birth defects, illness, and premature death in heavily sprayed communities...they still exist.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.trbimg.com/img-556650d4/turbine/la-et-mn-true-cost-cheap-clothes-documentary-20150528" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.trbimg.com/img-556650d4/turbine/la-et-mn-true-cost-cheap-clothes-documentary-20150528" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman from the film suffering from pigment loss due to chemicals used for making inexpensive leather.</td></tr>
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Buying organic fabric is a great way to put our money back into the environment and encourage farmers to stop using pesticides and GMO seeds. But not all organic is created equal. Best to avoid Soy, Bamboo, Tencel, and Modal. Soy is almost completely ruined by GMO, so finding it uncontaminated is nearly impossible. This is why I went from regular consumption to close to zero. I recently learned that Bamboo, Tencel, and Modal fabric production use extremely harmful chemicals to turn the wood into pulp.<br />
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I have stopped using cosmetics, chemical hair dyes, nail polish, any synthetic soaps and lotions, as well as most of the harmful cleaning supplies at home. It only makes sense now that I start to become more aware of the kind of fabric that sits on my skin. I'm not throwing out what I have, but I will need to scrutinize my fabric acquisitions closely moving forward.<br />
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Hurry...and watch the film! You'll understand why I had to share it with you.<br />
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-44774271776567896092015-07-06T15:22:00.001-07:002015-07-06T15:22:09.427-07:00Frida Kahlo 2015 Tribute - Vogue 8894Happy 108th Birthday Frida Kahlo! Although her official registered date of birth is July 6th, there are rumors that she acknowledged the 7th as her birthday. I decided that this year, and for the record, her tribute would be today.<br />
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My project this year is a sombre but elegant linen black dress dress from Vogue 8894. It is a beautifully designed pattern with many wonderful design details. My favorite is the high curved front hem.<br />
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I lined the bodice with a thin China silk, and to stiffen the bottom and limit some wrinkles, I lined the skirt with black silk organza.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GcooFlnDoQY/VZrz_WA8IDI/AAAAAAAAKxk/eeWYpq80Dd4/s1600/IMG_20150706_141803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GcooFlnDoQY/VZrz_WA8IDI/AAAAAAAAKxk/eeWYpq80Dd4/s400/IMG_20150706_141803.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This dress really needs accessories. Do you like my flower? It also looks good ON the dress.</td></tr>
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As a gag, my daughter filmed me as I was posing...and well, here it is for your amusement.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SdhmCdmJbYg/VZr0pv9WvhI/AAAAAAAAKx0/MOHlmQ1SkvM/s1600/IMG_20150706_141535-ANIMATION.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SdhmCdmJbYg/VZr0pv9WvhI/AAAAAAAAKx0/MOHlmQ1SkvM/s320/IMG_20150706_141535-ANIMATION.gif" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Amg6WuZhTlg/VZr63oCUqMI/AAAAAAAAKzE/6OtQwEPJnP4/s1600/IMG_20150706_131922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Amg6WuZhTlg/VZr63oCUqMI/AAAAAAAAKzE/6OtQwEPJnP4/s400/IMG_20150706_131922.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I made version B. Be forewarned that there's more ease than the photo leads on.</td></tr>
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I decided to spend a bit more time tailoring the dress by adding the lining. I am still on the fence about the skirt bottom, and adding a China silk lining, which makes the organza the interlining. It would add a slight more thickness and weight. I might wear it once and see how it goes.</div>
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WARNING! The pattern is not foolproof. If you decide to make it, be aware of the front hem facing. It did not match the cut skirt hem curve. I had to make me own after the fact.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K9FVD70a8B0/VZr2MgEweeI/AAAAAAAAKyE/IeEFV8WRHnk/s1600/IMG_20150627_150543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K9FVD70a8B0/VZr2MgEweeI/AAAAAAAAKyE/IeEFV8WRHnk/s320/IMG_20150627_150543.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When these errors occur, I always wonder if it's really me or the pattern.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p3SGY6ck800/VZr2MnysdFI/AAAAAAAAKyE/CFtDtqKFzu4/s1600/IMG_20150627_150425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p3SGY6ck800/VZr2MnysdFI/AAAAAAAAKyE/CFtDtqKFzu4/s320/IMG_20150627_150425.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the hem facing I created by matching the skirt base curve.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WtmxypJ8BhA/VZr2MnPsY_I/AAAAAAAAKyE/kbbD8CA4h7o/s1600/IMG_20150627_150408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WtmxypJ8BhA/VZr2MnPsY_I/AAAAAAAAKyE/kbbD8CA4h7o/s320/IMG_20150627_150408.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hem facing completed.</td></tr>
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The collar facing was a bit off for me as well. One piece was too short and the other was too long, so it ended up fitting the neckline, except the neck seams did not match. Although no one can see, it still irks me when the seams are off. </div>
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Here are some photos of the inside, as I was building the lining pieces.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U3djB8YnkBs/VZr3IeWAZTI/AAAAAAAAKyQ/28Gw8fgF6n8/s1600/IMG_20150703_141659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U3djB8YnkBs/VZr3IeWAZTI/AAAAAAAAKyQ/28Gw8fgF6n8/s320/IMG_20150703_141659.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After adding the China silk bodice, and the silk organza skirt.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Because the seams show on the skirt, I am thinking of adding a final China silk lining.</td></tr>
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The dress needs a 22" invisible zipper, and to be honest, I have never put in an invisible zipper before. I did not need to look far for instructions though. Did you know that the zipper packet comes with instructions, and they work just fine? I did not need to comb through YouTube videos. This was really straightforward and painless.</div>
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The dress turned out much larger than expected. I had to take in the front bodice seam by an inch due to my C Cup mishap. The pattern has adjustable bust cup sizes, and it was a first try for me. I ended up using the C Cup to match my bra size, but it was incorrect. Given the Kimono sleeves, I could easily have left it an A Cup. This is a great pattern for C and even D cups because there is a lot of ease. </div>
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I was tempted to nip and tuck at more places, but given that my linen fabric does not stretch, I changed my mind after giving the dress a "sit test." If ever, I am on the fence about whether to make a dress tighter, I sit down in a chair with the dress on. It's amazing what parts of my body spread after sitting. :-) </div>
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Some final thoughts about fitting...after months and months of cutting into size 16 patterns, I am suspecting that I am not a 16 in all patterns. Duh! Vogue size 16 are too big, and McCalls can be too small. Simplicity seems to be right on, and Butterick is inconsistent. The newer Indie patterns are all over the place. I am almost a perfect 14 on StyleArc, but a 12 on top. I am somewhere between a 10 or 12 with Victory Patterns. What is going on here? All these variances make for a very grumpy sewist. </div>
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Some more photos for your enjoyment...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Headless me.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice close-up...but difficult to see because it's black.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When I first saw this...I thought of was oversized funeral dress.</td></tr>
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The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-75379967380616579032015-07-02T10:01:00.001-07:002015-07-02T10:01:56.036-07:00A Day At Two Museums In High StyleFor my sister's birthday treat, I drove her out to San Francisco to see the High Style exhibit at the <a href="https://legionofhonor.famsf.org/" target="_blank">Legion of Honor</a>. The complete exhibit was beautiful but surprisingly small for a $30 ticket. But you know me...size does not always matter. I don't plan on spoiling the exhibit here by showing you all the pictures. I will however highlight a couple of things and encourage all in the SF Bay Area to get out there and support our museums. There's still a couple of weeks left. Besides, the Legion of Honor is located in one of the most picturesque spots in San Francisco. Seriously.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SlzeS8NSbc4/VZSSAENjoJI/AAAAAAAAKn0/JjbqeJ_cx0w/s1600/IMG_20150624_113443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SlzeS8NSbc4/VZSSAENjoJI/AAAAAAAAKn0/JjbqeJ_cx0w/s400/IMG_20150624_113443.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My brother-in-law is taking a picture of me taking a picture of him. He is the speck next to the statue.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NRnqKjLph6o/VZSSAEsMJDI/AAAAAAAAKn0/O0AoFr5ruYY/s1600/IMG_20150624_113432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NRnqKjLph6o/VZSSAEsMJDI/AAAAAAAAKn0/O0AoFr5ruYY/s400/IMG_20150624_113432.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I am taking a picture of my brother-in-law taking a picture of my sister. :-)</td></tr>
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Not all the displayed pieces had a 360-degree view, leaving me feeling very incomplete. As my sister sketched her favorites, I was tripping over the platforms trying to view the backs of dresses. The highlight of course were the Charles James gowns, but it were the 3D videos that stole the show for me. Attendees crowded around (myself included) for many minutes to view the genius construction of a Charles James' gown. Here is the heavy silk satin ball gown video sample, and the actual gown below.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This image was photo bombed by ghosts.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7QRgkvn-vC8/VZSKKRYUUKI/AAAAAAAAKm0/vpPN9tKVzGs/s1600/IMG_20150624_132244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7QRgkvn-vC8/VZSKKRYUUKI/AAAAAAAAKm0/vpPN9tKVzGs/s400/IMG_20150624_132244.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think the unrealistic view of the perfect body really came from gowns like this.<br />But it's hard to complain with such beauty and genius construction.</td></tr>
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Despite the elaborate gowns, many of which I will never sew, I did find real inspiration in two pieces...both of which I aspire to make one day. The first is this pretty number by the late American Designer Geoffrey Beene. Made in a plain weaved purple and white silk, it is the epitome of everything I consider fun and flirty. Yesssss....it is a smock-esque dress. But look at the cool scalloped contrasting hem. I think it's totally doable no? YESSS!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-711EQ9Skoqo/VZSK4BhnmeI/AAAAAAAAKnA/NJt0coF6NV8/s1600/IMG_20150624_130714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-711EQ9Skoqo/VZSK4BhnmeI/AAAAAAAAKnA/NJt0coF6NV8/s400/IMG_20150624_130714.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Because of this dress, I was inspired to purchase a red silk flower this week at Joanns.<br />I wish I were able to see the back of the dress.</td></tr>
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Geoffrey Beene passed away in 2004, which means he was still in his prime when I was growing into my future kitten-heeled pumps. He is one designer that I still remember drooling over as a fashion-crazed teenager. Another favorite design detail of mine (and Geoffrey Beene) is the empire waist. Here is a vintage Geoffrey Beene I found for sale online that caught my eye...and honestly, if I get some energy, I might make a copy. The gown was sewn with juxtapositioned fabrics: wool jersey for the bodice, and silk satin for the skirt, collar, and cuff. Geoffrey Beene, known for comfortable and stylish wear, took his reputation further by designing gowns using sweatshirt material. Wow right?<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_9Mukq-nBo/VZSdAJSarxI/AAAAAAAAKoI/39jnmUoa8Sc/s1600/Geoffrey%2BBeen%2Bjersey%2Band%2Bsatin%2Bgown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H_9Mukq-nBo/VZSdAJSarxI/AAAAAAAAKoI/39jnmUoa8Sc/s320/Geoffrey%2BBeen%2Bjersey%2Band%2Bsatin%2Bgown.jpeg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KzdKIfrmbcQ/VZSdGeLzHFI/AAAAAAAAKoQ/Hqnq5HOZBXk/s1600/Geoffrey%2BBeen%2Bgown%2Bbodice%2Bview.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KzdKIfrmbcQ/VZSdGeLzHFI/AAAAAAAAKoQ/Hqnq5HOZBXk/s200/Geoffrey%2BBeen%2Bgown%2Bbodice%2Bview.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>
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This dress (and others) are available for purchase for $950 <a href="https://www.1stdibs.com/fashion/clothing/evening-dresses/1960s-geoffrey-beene-satin-jersey-evening-gown-dress/id-v_286962/" target="_blank">HERE</a>. Not a terrible price for a vintage original.<br />
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If you want to learn more about Geoffrey Beene, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geoffrey_Beene" target="_blank">HERE</a> is a link to Wikipedia.<br />
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Another inspirational dress, and an equal favorite was the creator of the "bias cut," French designer Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1985). Made in 1935, this gown was considered modern dressmaking. Cut on the bias, and sewn in a striking mix of magenta and fuchsia crepe silk, the gown could adorn almost every body type. It's hard to believe that this is what our grandmothers wore. This 80-year-old design can be found on every runway in every season...a sign of a true "classic."<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Succulent colors, still vibrant for an 80-year-old. </td></tr>
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Madeleine Vionnet survived both World Wars, and lived to the ripe age of 99. She helped transition women out of the corset, and changed the shape of the female silhouette forever. Her then innovative construction techniques are now a part of the fashion industry standards. She was known for draping her fabrics directly on an 80-centimeter mannequin...most likely the same way we drape fabric in pattern design today.<br />
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Vionnet had two fashion houses, both of which closed at the end of each World War. The first survived two years (1912-1914). The second opened in the early 1920s, and received much notoriety and success for almost two decades until she retired in 1939 at the age of 69 years old. She lived another 30 years, and maybe her longevity helped keep her legacy alive long enough for her work to be preserved. True to her aesthetics to the very end, Vionnet was more than a couturier. In my opinion, she was an artist and a feminist. Perhaps these traits kept her at odds with the ever-growing commercialization of fashion.<br />
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At her death in 1975, she left behind what few could match, but with less notoriety in form of label or branding that benefitted many lesser designers. I am sure she would not have had it any other way. Were it not for curators like Betty Kirke, and the influence of younger designers, Vionnet and her work might have fallen into complete obscurity.<br />
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You can learn more about Madeleine Vionnet in a book written by Betty Kirke, and published by Chronicle Books. This is the third edition and available on Amazon for about $100. (Expect a review of the book here shortly.) Betty Kirke is currently working on another revised edition which will include a DVD with sewing instructions and actual patterns. I cannot wait! Kirke is a retired fashion designer, and former conservator at The Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology. Kirke was given access to Vionnet's collection before she died, which provided her with firsthand construction knowledge and insight about the designer. More on Kirke <a href="http://www.bettykirke.com/index.htm" target="_blank">HERE</a>.<br />
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The Vionnet brand was resurrected and taken over in 2012 by Ms. Goga Ashkenazi. It is unclear to me if she is the main designer as well. The current Vionnet brand also designs handbags as well as women's wear, and from the Fall/Winter 2015 Paris video on their website, I saw a few pieces "hint" of Vionnet, but does not evoke her true spirit. It is after all another investor acquired label using the good name of Vionnet. The same goes for Geoffrey Beene labels that still exist today.<br />
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If you did not know already, all Legion of Honor Museum tickets will also get you into the de Young Museum on the same day. We made it to Golden Gate Park with a few hours before closing, and found time to enjoy a quick lunch at the museum cafe.<br />
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"Although it's really your birthday, I feel like it's mine too!"<br />
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This is what I said to my sister while chowing down on Shepherd's pie at the de Young Museum Cafe. Besides having loads of fun at the exhibits...I also love eating at the museum. It's just one of those kooky things I find incredibly enjoyable. My particular favorite has been the Terrace 5 at MOMA in New York City, and Stanford's Cool Cafe. But I have appreciated them ALL in one form or another. If you do make it over to the de Young, look for the organic soft-serve ice cream truck sitting just outside the park. I got mine dipped in chocolate with a sprinkle of sea salt. (Sorry! I forgot an ice cream photo.)<br />
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After a satisfying lunch...there was much to browse at the de Young...even for textile lovers like me.<br />
Here are some inspirational pieces to inspire a second museum visit in one day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q7ZkKOHvAnQ/VZSv5Wi7OBI/AAAAAAAAKog/BmLxOJoS1MA/s1600/IMG_20150624_153840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q7ZkKOHvAnQ/VZSv5Wi7OBI/AAAAAAAAKog/BmLxOJoS1MA/s400/IMG_20150624_153840.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a wonderful inspiration for my future shrine.<br />But I also saw a beautiful princess adorned by a gold headpiece. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4yLD0SFnXxQ/VZSwtDEdfOI/AAAAAAAAKo8/K5NNZtOdZck/s1600/IMG_20150624_153850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4yLD0SFnXxQ/VZSwtDEdfOI/AAAAAAAAKo8/K5NNZtOdZck/s320/IMG_20150624_153850.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of the above piece.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Japanese rattan art piece. I actually see it as a hat...the obvious,<br />but also, the sleeves of a beautiful dress or movement in a flowy skirt.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aLYgjjm_Bew/VZSwbjGb1GI/AAAAAAAAKo0/IV0KNdfdXC0/s1600/IMG_20150624_152652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aLYgjjm_Bew/VZSwbjGb1GI/AAAAAAAAKo0/IV0KNdfdXC0/s320/IMG_20150624_152652.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think this is artfully hung wood bark...but I am not certain. Sadly, I forgot to photograph the description.<br />It reminded me of fringe or the beads of a flapper dress.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hmoeULDCXOI/VZSwboNQaWI/AAAAAAAAKo0/48GxmfdymRE/s1600/IMG_20150624_152810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hmoeULDCXOI/VZSwboNQaWI/AAAAAAAAKo0/48GxmfdymRE/s320/IMG_20150624_152810.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A enormous art piece made entirely out of aluminum strips off of twist caps. <br />This piece was utterly breathtaking at a distance. I saw a beautiful sheath dress or an emperor's cape.</td></tr>
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And this just says it all for me when it comes to art, textiles, and fashion... Happy sewing!<br />
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-86818548208124476432015-06-23T13:45:00.002-07:002015-06-23T13:45:19.899-07:00Vogue 8968 Summer Dress in LinenI saw a similar pattern for this dress in one of my Japanese pattern books. But as of late I have not had the energy to transfer, adjust, sew, adjust, and sew again. I've perused my books, and dreamt about making a few more things...but the transferring feels like such a burden these days. I feel the same way about my Burda Patterns. I have probably a dozen of them in my online account that I haven't even printed up because I'm too overwhelmed to tape, make adjustments, add seam allowances, sew, make adjustments again, and sew again. Are you tired of reading this yet? Whine, whine, whine...<br />
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Enter Vogue 8968, an easy dress to sew in a day or two depending on your fabric choice. My fabric is linen and a recent acquisition from my friend Ali at our latest sewing stash event. This dress cuts loose...really loose. Made in a size large, this dress can fit a plus size, up to a size 22, which why I gave this dress to my sister for her birthday.<br />
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The neckline really stretched out even after stay stitching, The facing was interfaced so it did not stretch. I had to create a small pleat at the neckline to fit the facing in. What I learned here is that I should have probably double stay stitched the neckline or added some kind of stabilizer like spray starch. Eh...I live and learn.<br />
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I ran out of fabric for the bottom facing. I used some lightweight linen scraps from my poofy Vogue dress from last Summer. Worked out fine.<br />
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I made version "A" with the neck opening. I love these kind of necklines, but they can be super tricky to make with stretchy fabric. Stabilize, stabilize, stabilize!</div>
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The FAM (family still at home, which consists of my daughter and husband), did not like this dress. Everytime I sew something in a shade of light blue, my daughter calls it a hospital smock. My husband didn't like the cut of the long, pointy side panels. My husband's comments went like this:<br />
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Husband: What's wrong with this dress?<br />
Me: Nothing.<br />
Husband: Why does it look so wrinkled?<br />
Me: Because it's a linen dress.<br />
Husband: But no one knows it's linen...people will just think it's a wrinkled dress.<br />
Me: I don't think anyone will really care.<br />
Husband: It still looks wrinkled.<br />
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Happy sewing!The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-72089812136181221652015-06-13T16:04:00.002-07:002015-06-13T16:04:15.939-07:00Super-Cute Blouse - Vogue 9067 <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I might have to eat my hat if I make one more Vogue Pattern, and it turns out scrumptious after the first muslin. But before I get ahead of myself, I do have a few things to say about how this pattern is not perfect if you are shorter than five foot three inches. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was purchased on sale from Denver fabrics for about $3 a yard. It is also wide at 60 inches. It is a light-weight cotton similar to a voile or a lawn. It drapes beautifully, and is one of the most successful muslins I have made thus far. <br />It's always a good day when the muslin turns out.</td></tr>
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This pattern is drafted extra long and wide. If you are close to pettite, everything will be swimming on you. For me, it turned out a bit wider than I would like, but it was still acceptable. I shortened the bodice by two inches, and the blouse still sat below my high hip, and even lower in the back because due to its "high-low" cut.<br />
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The pattern comes in several cuts, but I bought it primarily for the plain white blouse version below with the ruffled sleeve. This pattern also comes with pants suffering from the same problem...too long, and too wide. I took a good five inches on the leg off, but after sewing the muslin, I needed to also take up a couple inches from the hip area both in length and in width. This pattern is obviously best suited for someone above average in height. Otherwise, a lot of adjusting is necessary. I made the large, but I think I could have made a medium or even a small. Unfortunately, I did not have a smaller option.<br />
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The actual sewing was easy. Bear in mind that the least amount of waste happens if using 45' wide fabric. The pants on the other hand, would need 58" wide to get both pieces on a single folded panel.<br />
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I didn't have matching light pink-coral thread for the blouse, so I used a standard ivory. I hand stitch all the visible seams with some embroidery thread of a similar (but not exact) color. A lot of hand work usually annoys me, but I felt especially patient that day. The result was a beautifully stitched blouse that looked more bespoke than machine-made.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I hand stitched the keyhole facing which made it easier to ease around the curve. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right side of the back keyhole neck. Not perfect, but I think it would have looked worse if machine stitched.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I also hand stitched the neck bias facing too.</td></tr>
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I made my first a semi-tailored linen jacket in high school. At the time, my then home economics teacher insisted that I put in the lining (after I sewed the sleeves on) completely by hand. I remember being really mad at her at the time. But to her credit, she taught me how to sew an invisible hem that I still use today.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand hemmed was performed on the sleeve as well.</td></tr>
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These are my favorite hand sewing tools. I don't remember where I bought the thread, but I've had it in my toolkit for many years. It's a beautiful silk embroidery thread from Asia (maybe Japan).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wm_2jvLhN2U/VXyv9gaOZVI/AAAAAAAAJs4/Q3pHeHyGiNs/s1600/IMG_20150608_175553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wm_2jvLhN2U/VXyv9gaOZVI/AAAAAAAAJs4/Q3pHeHyGiNs/s400/IMG_20150608_175553.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk thread, beeswax, and Bohin hand-sewing needles.</td></tr>
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This is my first packet of Bohin needles. I like the fact that the top of the eye of the needle is flatter, which makes pushing the needle through fabric easier. I never knew this would be an important feature in a needle until I discovered it.<br />
<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-21342803928063510162015-06-05T00:23:00.001-07:002015-06-05T00:23:52.493-07:00One Fabric - Two Styles My Meetup group is having a pattern swap next weekend. Luckily for me, I don't have many patterns to giveaway. But I can't say the same about my fabric stash. With my decluttering goals for the remainder of the year, I am back to finding easy and quick-sewing patterns. But there still remains the cycle of "more." More sewing equates to more stuff to store. Am I just moving my things around, and not reducing? How do I solve this conundrum? One way is selfless sewing...making things for other people. This is just as slow and time-consuming as sewing for myself. I have to ask myself...am I getting close to parting with some of my fabric stash? Maybe.<br />
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Now back to some sewing...<br />
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Veering off a bit from StyleArc Patterns, I dabbled in a couple of new ones. I have been holding on to this piece of cotton from Stone Mountain for a long time. The cotton is a bit sheer for work, but great for Summer layering, and warm days on the beach or park. My fabric looks like a thin cotton muslin, but wears like a lawn. It was originally planned for a peasant top...enter Butterick B4685.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pnoSkGafdFk/VWzAhymQ6PI/AAAAAAAAJjY/AmY43VNu_1c/s1600/IMG_20150521_152023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pnoSkGafdFk/VWzAhymQ6PI/AAAAAAAAJjY/AmY43VNu_1c/s400/IMG_20150521_152023.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used my bias tape stash to create the casing for the elastic neckline. </td></tr>
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This pattern feels more like a juniors cut to me, and it is a bit skimpy on the width. I like fuller peasant tops in general. But if you are looking at saving fabric, then this one is for you. It is mostly easy to make, but the hem is curved at the sides. The pattern instruction said to use a simple doubled narrow fold hem. This is okay, except it will pucker a bit if the fabric is thin and loosely weaved like mine. A better alternative would be the eased curved-hem technique, or reshape the hem entirely, which I think is pretty easy to do.<br />
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I made the white one on the pattern, but with the shorter cap sleeve from the yellow top sample below. I did not like the way the elastic looked on the cap sleeve, and removed it in the end. It is more comfortable for my chubby arms without it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HnAe6yo9xPU/VWyzuNO7qHI/AAAAAAAAJiU/JLMEOKkssnk/s1600/IMG_20150521_152050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HnAe6yo9xPU/VWyzuNO7qHI/AAAAAAAAJiU/JLMEOKkssnk/s400/IMG_20150521_152050.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I have not had a ton of luck with Butterick patterns. I find them inconsistent in sizing.</td></tr>
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With the peasant top completed, I still had a bit more fabric leftover to create a second top. I thought about making a second version of the peasant, but ultimately decided that I didn't really like the pattern as-is. B-bye! Enter Simplicity 1693...<br />
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A simple high-low top supported by bias binding. I used the same bias binding on both tops. Except this one is turned inside at the neck and arm opening for support. The sheerness of the cotton allowed the peach bias tape color to show through, and added a nice touch. But I had problems with my fabric puckering from the stiff bias tape. Sigh...<br />
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Here's a close up of the fabric and neck area. (Excuse my puckers.) Both of these tops were essentially muslins, that I whipped up like Speedy Gonzales. After adding more water to my iron, the steam straightened out a lot of the puckers. </div>
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Not so proud of my speed sewing, but here's the thing...no one seemed to notice. This Simplicity pattern looked a bit hum-drum at first, but the simple lines helps highlight fancy fabrics. Look at the many variations below. I think this pattern is a keeper. It fits straight out of the package. The only thing I would change is the back hook and eye opening. The neckline is big enough for my version that it does not need an opening at all. I wouldn't suggest skipping it with the collar version though. At least not on the first try. My version only had two pattern pieces, and the only necessary notion is bias tape (and hook and eye if needed).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yK6oveQgHQQ/VWy2aqgSqQI/AAAAAAAAJjI/mXifaA2-w98/s1600/IMG_20150525_172641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yK6oveQgHQQ/VWy2aqgSqQI/AAAAAAAAJjI/mXifaA2-w98/s400/IMG_20150525_172641.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I made the simple collarless moss green tank.</td></tr>
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I've already worn both tops a couple of times already. I admit that I love the peachy color on my skin. If only it didn't remind me of bridesmaid dresses from the 80s. I have a burnt orange Swiss dot cotton in my stash that I'm thinking of turning into another variation. But it might have to wait a couple of weeks. There's a new Vogue pattern prepped and ready for fabric cutting. If all goes well, and I'm not too distracted, I hope to have the new project done by this weekend. I just started picking up Saturday half-day shifts, so there goes one quarter of my weekend. Second sigh... Happy sewing!</div>
The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-45478403568219154382015-05-30T18:37:00.002-07:002015-05-30T18:37:24.158-07:00StyleArc Fern Top - Phase I<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This muslin turned out "okay" but it may not be my most favorite pattern to date. I did not find it as intuitive as I would like...or it was just one of those mentally impatient sewing days. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-meqMPaPXF4g/VWpgm3yzEeI/AAAAAAAAJgQ/y7RFJIJWV-8/s1600/IMG_20150525_170000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-meqMPaPXF4g/VWpgm3yzEeI/AAAAAAAAJgQ/y7RFJIJWV-8/s400/IMG_20150525_170000.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> It's a nice cool cotton. Perfect for the summer. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UUSbJemSkH4/VWphFztnGzI/AAAAAAAAJgY/Ulaa2yda9iM/s1600/IMG_20150520_164513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UUSbJemSkH4/VWphFztnGzI/AAAAAAAAJgY/Ulaa2yda9iM/s400/IMG_20150520_164513.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is the print up close. Fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-744OfzNoCuI/VWphR75nmJI/AAAAAAAAJgo/k9ar5f3vLDE/s1600/IMG_20150520_164529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-744OfzNoCuI/VWphR75nmJI/AAAAAAAAJgo/k9ar5f3vLDE/s400/IMG_20150520_164529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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We had this weird heat spell in early Spring...then it felt like late Winter all over again...and now it's back to Spring at a comfortable, but windy 73 degrees today. I'm starting to wear my summer clothes but not without my wool socks and a sweater. I haven't put away my hats and scarves, and the evening chills has itched my fingers to knit again. Knitting in June? <div>
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The only thing that's not getting used this year are my rain gear. I'll not complain too much except for lack of water. As far as I'm concerned, a mild Summer means we can all save a pint or two of water without our gardens drying up too quickly. Global warming might one day turn California into the tropics. Will that mean black rain and flooding in June and July coupled with humidity? Wouldn't that just change everything in my closet? Or worse...we will become the Mojave Desert. Even without the draught, we have never been a lush state. With the exception of our Northern California...we are a state of more desert than green.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W1lMcMo54TQ/VWpf659ODxI/AAAAAAAAJgI/Xoy5P92XW3Y/s1600/IMG_20150530_131233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W1lMcMo54TQ/VWpf659ODxI/AAAAAAAAJgI/Xoy5P92XW3Y/s400/IMG_20150530_131233.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four new StyleArc patterns in the mail today. The top left was FREE with my order. <br />It is a raglan sleeved tunic. My two favorite styles together!</td></tr>
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Of all my paper patterns, I pay the most money for StyleArc. I don't mind waiting for them to arrive from Australia. Because I like their single, thick sheet of pattern paper folded into a decent A4ish size paper package. I detest tissue paper. I also detest taping patterns together more. I abhor taping patterns together, and then having to add seam allowances. As much as I like looking at Burda Patterns...I don't download many, nor have I transferred a single pattern from one of those magazine. The Japanese pattern books at least have seam allowances...at least I think so. </div>
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Happy sewing!</div>
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The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-12559392077067310022015-05-26T17:37:00.002-07:002015-05-26T17:37:33.198-07:00Shibori Smock - My Summer Clothes CollectionWhat could be more satisfying than sewing a tried-and-true pattern? I made two recently: my Japanese smock and another StyleArc design. The smock pattern was made from a piece of hand-dyed Shibori cotton I found on Ebay. Look how beautiful the fabric looks...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AyeU-talVzU/VWUDB0NwPdI/AAAAAAAAJd4/1TuTpqMKEqs/s1600/IMG_20150518_170950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AyeU-talVzU/VWUDB0NwPdI/AAAAAAAAJd4/1TuTpqMKEqs/s400/IMG_20150518_170950.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I managed to actually match the pattern in the front.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9GdqboIk7BE/VWUDB52YgCI/AAAAAAAAJd4/REerHJcotOc/s1600/IMG_20150518_171002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9GdqboIk7BE/VWUDB52YgCI/AAAAAAAAJd4/REerHJcotOc/s400/IMG_20150518_171002.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not so successful in the back, but it difficult to tell. The cut on this smock<br />does not really allow pattern matching very well. </td></tr>
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The cotton is extremely comfortable, and the blue is vibrant on every complexion. I was a bit surprised that even after washing before cutting the fabric, my hands still turned slightly blue. Well, not as blue as a true Shibori artist. Look at the two pattern pieces for the smock...<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ujVk1AQS52I/VWUIRLwqHWI/AAAAAAAAJeU/42jSO9lI8lY/s1600/IMG_20150518_171945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ujVk1AQS52I/VWUIRLwqHWI/AAAAAAAAJeU/42jSO9lI8lY/s320/IMG_20150518_171945.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VF_Ytru_HYI/VWUDBz_ddII/AAAAAAAAJd4/B6Jq6yvR_8s/s1600/IMG_20150518_170942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VF_Ytru_HYI/VWUDBz_ddII/AAAAAAAAJd4/B6Jq6yvR_8s/s400/IMG_20150518_170942.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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I am still working down the huge stash of bias binding I shipped over from the UK. But we can always use more bias tape right? I couldn't let this beautiful fabric go to waste, so I made more from the leftovers.<br />
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I have a couple more Shibori pieces left, and I'm planning on making another Asian-inspired pattern. One idea I have is a Chanel-cut quilted jacket. I saw one ever-so-briefly one season at J. Crew and fell in love with it.<br />
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Here is the other piece I completed on the same day as the smock...another remake of SyleArc's Peta Pants. I was inspired to do it in a black cotton because of the pair I recently made for my stepmother. This is an embroidered cotton that I picked up many moons ago at Stone Mountain Fabrics. Look closely at the second picture for the embroidery print.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lfATG82_Y6U/VWUHzlVwMmI/AAAAAAAAJeM/Cu9Tr0nks9k/s1600/IMG_20150518_194137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lfATG82_Y6U/VWUHzlVwMmI/AAAAAAAAJeM/Cu9Tr0nks9k/s400/IMG_20150518_194137.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HbRxypCdUME/VWUHzqAi15I/AAAAAAAAJeM/Pjzw7e-bt24/s1600/IMG_20150518_194144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HbRxypCdUME/VWUHzqAi15I/AAAAAAAAJeM/Pjzw7e-bt24/s320/IMG_20150518_194144.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the actual pattern <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=2&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=434&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=42" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</td></tr>
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The first couple of pairs of Peta pants were sewn in ponte, and another double knit. Both were too long, and too big due to the added stretch. Both pairs were gifted to my sister. The Peta pants are cut for wovens. After shortening the length, my woven pair turned out just fine.<br />
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Frida Kahlo's birthday is coming up in the first week of July. Anyone interested in joining me in a sew-along tribute? This would be my third year of sewing something for Frida. Last year I made a Victory Pattern dress using Sari fabric. I still believe that a modern Frida would be multicultural, and appreciate fashion from around the globe. If you want to join me...shoot me a message or post. You can make anything...just post it on my Google Plus community board on July 6th or send me a link or photo of your post before July 6th, and I'll post it on my blog. If Frida were alive today, she would be turning 108 years old. Let's celebrate together!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://inspireportal.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/_d_improd_/6-08-Mexican-Artist-Frida-Kahlo-1950-1364x2050_f_improf_1364x2050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://inspireportal.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/_d_improd_/6-08-Mexican-Artist-Frida-Kahlo-1950-1364x2050_f_improf_1364x2050.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frida Kahlo RIP</td></tr>
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Happy sewing! </div>
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-53103416240646589352015-05-22T13:32:00.001-07:002015-05-22T13:32:54.055-07:00Wardrobe StaplesSewing was really at an all-time low during early Spring. My dreams of creating some fun clothes bursted from having too much work from my day job. Maybe you don't know this...but I am a licensed acupuncturist by profession. My husband pokes fun at this (pun intended), because of my general fondness for needling, be it in the textile or healing arts.<br />
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It's been a slow work week, which seems to happen around a holiday, and this being Memorial Day weekend, I thought I could sew a bit more. I took a good look at my aging wardrobe, which consists of really old corporate work clothes, and really raggedy things I kept from my graduate school days. I used to pride myself on dressing well, but given the opportunity to choose, I prefer to live in sweats, t-shirts, and clogs. Obviously, I need better staples.<br />
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Last Sunday, I decided to sew staples that I could wear at home and at work. There's nothing like elastic-waisted bottoms for complete comfort. And if I can find a pattern with no more than two major pieces to sew together...then it's gold.<br />
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Enter...another successful StyleArc Pattern...the Rita Ponte Skirt. Believe me, I've got a lot of ponte fabric in my stash. This easy skirt is cut in short and long lengths. I chose the long length for my first choice, but I might go back and make the shorter version as Summer kicks in. I did not add any decorative side bands, which is very in-style, but not in my "lazy" style I'm afraid.<br />
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I made three skirts in total...and it gets much faster after the first one. I serged all my skirts, and was able to churn out one in about an hour. I made the first out of a black and ivory striped print, the second out of my grey velour (which would go great with tennis shoes), and the third is in basic black. Ponte is pretty much wearable year-round in California (with the exception of those 100-plus degree days).<br />
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I felt slightly guilty that I was not challenging myself to make something more difficult. But seriously, I don't need fancy clothes. I just need clothes that are a step-up from sweats, and decent enough to wear to work. Luckily, being an acupuncturist does not require me to wear a suit. Although it's great to look professional...but I move a lot, and physically work with patients. Stretch and breathable fabrics are key for me.<br />
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With a few bottom basics completed, I am left with the task of finding things to match. The one thing I need to do better at is buying fabric stash that coordinate. I only did this once...and I managed to use up all except one piece of fabric in that collection. BTW, sewing with ponte and velour really shrinks down stash space. Happy sewing!<br />
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-2281807227395042792015-05-11T12:44:00.001-07:002015-05-11T12:44:30.397-07:00Pavlova Blouse - My First TryI've been eyeing this pattern for a while. Since it was available for download on Etsy now, I decided to try the blouse. As of the making of the Pavlova blouse, the matching skirt was not available for download. It's overall fairly easy to sew. There's only two things about the pattern that calls for some extra attention.<br />
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1. On the PDF version, some of the sizing lines were difficult to discern. (Please be very careful!)<br />
2. The second is a technique that helps stabilize the wrap, and calls for some interfacing. No biggie, but certainly something I have never done before.<br />
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I have noticed that I'm always wrapping tops to the right, and most patterns fold over on the left. I do this all the time with patterns!<br />
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This knit fabric was a Red Tag remnant. I think I paid a few dollars for it. The print looked a little funky on the bolt, but I think the colors are super cute. Don't you? This was my muslin. I call the first run of any pattern using inexpensive fabric my muslin. But stretch fabric is very forgiving, so even with a few fitting glitches, it's still wearable. This top is extremely comfortable to wear.<br />
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Since completing and giving the muslin a test wear, I decided that it was too short for my torso. I have added about three inches to the bottom. The bust area is too big for me too, so I'm going to be shaving a bit of the wrap around coverage to lessen the bust bulk. My problem is a thick waist and small breast, which equates to tree trunk body. Everything else fits okay.<br />
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If you're interested in the download, you can get it <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/151129558/pdf-pavlova-wrap-top-cake-patterns-0169?ref=shop_home_active_2" target="_blank">HERE</a> for $7.44 (US).<br />
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This might be the first muslin that has received so many compliments! (Personally, I think it's the colors.) I might have enough of the muslin fabric to make a second one. Happy sewing!The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-58099777962646526592015-05-06T21:55:00.000-07:002015-05-06T21:55:33.284-07:00Something About Sock DarningThis sewing basket was an out-of-the-blue gift from my sister J. who lives in a town filled with antique and vintage shops. This was a little something she picked up during one of her treasure hunting weekends. The basket is in pretty good shape, giving away its not-so-old age.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7epBHOwyyt8/VUPqXWedmHI/AAAAAAAAJEg/WSa_Xoyt5Dc/s1600/IMG_20150428_092011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7epBHOwyyt8/VUPqXWedmHI/AAAAAAAAJEg/WSa_Xoyt5Dc/s1600/IMG_20150428_092011.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior is still nicely intact.</td></tr>
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One of the things that I really like in the basket are the green wooden darning tool, and various wool threads. This is the one sewing gadget I do not own. I have never given the task of darning socks much thought. But with the new tools at my disposal, I thought "why not?" I certainly have quite a few pairs of socks with holes.<br />
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Commercial sock thread is much thinner than what we use for hand-knitted socks. It makes more sense to darn handmade socks, but not so much for ordinary RTW ones. I wear primarily SmartWool socks, and the non-hiking versions wear down quickly in the heel and toe areas. They are also on the expensive side ($12-30+ a pair), and for the price, I feel like they should last longer. A couple years back, I wrote an email to SmartWool about purchasing darning thread from them. I knew it was a long shot, because if their customers started repairing their socks, it might eat into their sales revenue right? Of course they said "sorry, we can't help you."<br />
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Bundled with my vintage sewing basket are several types of darning thread...all are too thick for a perfect match for SmartWool socks, but doable.<br />
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I don't think they are manufactured in great volume anymore, but I did find a couple of brands. I cannot guarantee the thickness since I haven't actually purchased them myself. I would love to get opinions from others who have. Of course, you can pick up some vintage packs on Etsy and Ebay. Here are the brands I found that still manufacture darning thread:<br />
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<li>Schoeller and Stahl 75% wool, 25% polyamide</li>
<li>Fortissma 75% wool, 25% nylon</li>
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After trying out my darning tool on two pairs of socks, I found that some methods work better than others depending upon the shape of the hole. All over the internet, everyone has their own opinion on how it should be done. Here is a picture of one that I like. I didn't do my first few exactly like this though.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://loveyourclothes.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/4261sock-darning-stages-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://loveyourclothes.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/4261sock-darning-stages-resized.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can get these instructions <a href="http://loveyourclothes.org.uk/tip/darning-holey-socks/" target="_blank">HERE</a> from loveyourclothes website.</td></tr>
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Using a weaving technique creates a fresh yarn patch in the worned area of the sock. It also eliminates "some" of the bulk (not all) that I hate when I run into thick seam lines in socks, especially in the toe area. Here are my darning attempts...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVeDcc2_bOQ/VUVgD4JMSHI/AAAAAAAAJGo/_9W8NcEEHEQ/s1600/IMG_20150502_141526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVeDcc2_bOQ/VUVgD4JMSHI/AAAAAAAAJGo/_9W8NcEEHEQ/s1600/IMG_20150502_141526.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multiple holes in the heel area.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qQc9MX681rU/VUVgD6dIWYI/AAAAAAAAJGo/rReEm4sIwjM/s1600/IMG_20150502_142025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qQc9MX681rU/VUVgD6dIWYI/AAAAAAAAJGo/rReEm4sIwjM/s1600/IMG_20150502_142025.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I started from the base and closed the first small hole before continuing to the big one.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ynE-G0HN5lg/VUVgD-U6jII/AAAAAAAAJGo/CY4T4LmTog0/s1600/IMG_20150502_143025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ynE-G0HN5lg/VUVgD-U6jII/AAAAAAAAJGo/CY4T4LmTog0/s1600/IMG_20150502_143025.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All done...and the thread matched pretty well.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I62V7B1CGF4/VUVgV6uGEPI/AAAAAAAAJGw/DAbJPsPu9pM/s1600/IMG_20150502_143135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I62V7B1CGF4/VUVgV6uGEPI/AAAAAAAAJGw/DAbJPsPu9pM/s1600/IMG_20150502_143135.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multiple holes in the toe area. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tA6D83U3h6Q/VUVgV7qsOrI/AAAAAAAAJGw/vlRv48462rQ/s1600/IMG_20150502_151237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tA6D83U3h6Q/VUVgV7qsOrI/AAAAAAAAJGw/vlRv48462rQ/s1600/IMG_20150502_151237.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All done, and maybe a couple more months of wear.</td></tr>
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Mending something that I really love to wear was very emotionally satisfying. I am not a fan of alterations or repair...but something about socks feel very different. I hope others will consider doing it too. Happy sock darning!The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-58559462062729596042015-05-02T00:00:00.000-07:002015-05-02T09:53:40.952-07:00No-Sew Tutu For BabyThis is my first baby gift in years. I thought about making the typical blanket, or even a little tote bag to carry incidental baby items (because there are many of them). But in the end, I just really wanted to make something different while still having a bit of fun. I searched the internet for some ideas, and decided that for a little infant girl...her first dress-up gift should be a tutu. At least for me, it was something I loved playing with as a child.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yTOpRR_NALc/VT5b6z5FtzI/AAAAAAAAI9Y/-ooJl-tL9KQ/s1600/IMG_20150425_210403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yTOpRR_NALc/VT5b6z5FtzI/AAAAAAAAI9Y/-ooJl-tL9KQ/s1600/IMG_20150425_210403.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tutu Front</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tutu Back</td></tr>
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I found several sites with suggestions for a no-sew tutu. You can find instructions on blogs like the Pinning Mama, Instructables, DIY Network, and many, many more. Just enter a quick search into Google using "no sew tutu." This is certainly not a new idea, and honestly, it does not need any complex tutorial. I did do some hand sewing though. I had to stitch the flowers onto the waistband, and attach the ribbon to the elastic ends. But that's about it.<br />
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My own version ties in the back. I did not see a tutorial for my version. I wanted the tutu to have more size flexibility. By adding the tie, this tutu also makes a great big pink crown!<br />
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All you need is:<br />
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2-3 Rolls of netting in whatever width you would like your Tutu to be in length. If you're going to make an adult size, then more netting. I like the rolls because if I buy too much, I can return what I did not use. Start with cutting one roll first for an infant, and then two for a toddler...and so on. Don't cut all the netting out. You may not need it.<br />
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Adults...? I'm not sure, but I'm thinking closer to 6 rolls or more depending upon how poofy you want your skirt. Cut the netting into even strips at your desired length. Remember, you will be tying the netting, so you will want to double the length, and add an inch. Example, if you want your skirt to be ten inches in length, cut the strips to 21 inches. An infant tutu is around four inches, so you would need to cut nine inch strips. It's best to use a cardboard strip to keep the measurements equal, but I was lazy, and in the middle of watching television. I just measured (by eye) the length I wanted, and then cut the rest out using the first as a master. If you want a perfectly even tutu, then don't do it my way. Mine looks a bit more organic (uneven at the edges)...but the netting can be trimmed if necessary.<br />
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Elastic - I used the non-rolling one-inch elastic. Cut to your desired length. I did mine around 15 inches, which means the newborn won't be able to use it until she starts walking. Since mine ties in the back, I do not waste any elastic inches like I would sewing a connected round band. But if you want to make it a pull-on tutu, then add an extra inch for overlap stitching of the elastic. I recommend getting an actual waist measurement if you want the skirt true to size.<br />
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You'll need ribbon if you want my version, otherwise, you can sew the ribbon to the front or back as a nice decoration. You will need to sew the ribbon to the elastic before you begin. If you want the pull-on type tutu, then stitch the elastic together to create your waistband.<br />
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Once you're set with the netting strips, begin tying the netting onto the waistband. I decided to use two pieces of netting and double knotted mine. I liked the way it covered the elastic better, and offered more poof. But you could play around with it and see what looks best.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JICAoeLNjBw/VT5c5RV85tI/AAAAAAAAI9w/gLBO6Dv5Hzw/s1600/IMG_20150425_200141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JICAoeLNjBw/VT5c5RV85tI/AAAAAAAAI9w/gLBO6Dv5Hzw/s1600/IMG_20150425_200141.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is what it looks like after knotting only a few strips of netting.</td></tr>
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I purchased pre made fabric flowers along with my other supplies. You could make your own, but that would take more time right? Try to keep the flower pieces large enough so the baby does not pick them off and accidentally swallow them. Be kind to the mother of the baby, and stay away from glittery things. Handstitching is preferable to glue, and hot glue might melt the netting.<br />
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My whole project was under $20. You can also add a headband, and maybe some wings, a pair of matching booties, and you will have yourself one dancing toddler. My gift will be the tutu for baby, and maybe something yummy for her mommy. After all, the mom did do all the work right?<br />
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Happy crafting!</div>
The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-43470217249119755992015-04-29T14:05:00.001-07:002015-04-29T14:05:46.468-07:00Wool Jersey Gym Shorts - Free PatternThese are a great pair of shorts. I'm so happy with the results that I plan on making more. Thanks to the kind and gentle folks at Purl Bee! I made these out of an old wool jersey skirt that I ended up wearing only once. The fabric is actually preshrunk, so I should be able to wash these in cold water, and line dry it.<br />
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The wool skirt was one of those early sewing projects where I bit off more than I could chew. The trim was made from the leftover fabric from my love-hate chambray wool and cotton skirt (a handsewn piece from 2012). I guess you could call this an upcycle project.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side view of the shorts.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selfie of my shorts.</td></tr>
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There are only two pieces to the pattern, and it comes in four sizes. The waistband was measured out according to the instructions. Since I used a wool jersey, it stretched more than the recommended waistband size. I suggest measuring for more if you decide to use a similar fabric. This project was so easy, I only needed to read the instructions once. This could easily be a two-hour project if you have ready-made bias tape. The only thing that could make these better would be pockets.<br />
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I don't think I ever wrote about this jersey wool skirt I made three years ago. But here it is right before I unripped it for the gym shorts. It was originally a Donna Karan skirt, I turned into a asymmetrical Japanese-esque wrap skirt. My mistake at the time was thinking I could tackle a Donna Karan Vogue pattern so early into my re-entry into sewing. I know now after countless DK patterns, that I needed more sewing notches under my belt first.<br />
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I might have enough for a matching wool jersey tank. Did you know that wool jersey is great for layering? It's lighter and less bulky than fleece or regular sweatshirt knits. But just as soft and cuddly.<br />
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You can get the free City Gym Shorts pattern <a href="http://www.purlbee.com/2014/07/24/corinnes-thread-city-gym-shorts-for-all-ages/" target="_blank">HERE</a>. Purl Bee has two versions, one made from cotton, and a second pair made from wool. Either way, they use the same pattern. They have a kit you can buy too. But I have plenty in my stash and closet for these shorts. The shorts don't require a lot of fabric, so an upcycle is pretty darn perfect for it too. Happy sewing!!!The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-44146283399013206512015-04-26T22:09:00.000-07:002015-04-26T22:09:10.848-07:00Style Arc Elle Stretch PantsThis could be a two hour project if using the correct fabric.<br />
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First of all...I'm not supposed to be using a stretch denim or a stretch cotton. Neither of these fabrics have enough stretch...but I made them anyway. I sewed the pants three times before I got the size correct. To hide my pot belly, I brought the waist up super high. Big-Girl Pants!<br />
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Here's what I did... This is a snake metallic, stretch denim, and I love them. If you want to make these, you'll need to order a size up or two from the pattern, and pull the waist higher a couple of inches. But it could also look fine without. I have a bit longer torso so I prefer high waists when possible. I did not order a size up...I just graded the pattern. Measure! Measure! Measure! Remember if you've got a pot belly like mine, and a pancake tushie, then your front piece will curve slightly higher than the back. I think I could have tapered the ankles more...oh well, next pair then.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are almost skinny jeans and less like leggings. It's a very forgiving fabric. Dress them up or down. </td></tr>
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Here's what it looks like on my dress form...the lighting is better, so you can see the metallic gold snake print. Isn't it cool? I bought this at the discount table at Joanns for $3 a yard (might have been less with the additional discount.) Another one of those amazing finds in a place I least expected. </div>
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If you're using a pattern...make sure you match the grain exactly. I did it with this pair, and the striped one below. Any inch off, the design will run amuck.<br />
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Here's the other pair I made out of a lovely striped cotton stretch pants. It's a thicker cotton, and extremely comfortable. I made it out of the original size, so it was too small for me. I gave it to my daughter's friend. She loves them. The waistband pattern did not match, but no one sees that anyway. Look at the matchy matchy legs though. I wish I had more of this fabric, so I could make another pair for myself.<br />
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This striped fabric was from Stone Mountain Fabrics in Berkeley. I purchased it about ten years ago. Still as lovely as the first day I bought it.<br />
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Here is the pattern in case anyone is interested in making these. They are super easy, but I recommend using the proper four-way stretch fabric necessary if you're keeping to your true size. I feel like after converting this, I could grade any stretch fabric pattern to a semi-stretch. Happy sewing!!!<br />
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-51712386606302596812015-04-17T11:33:00.000-07:002015-04-17T11:33:35.535-07:00Perfecting Men's Shirts - Pattern ReviewI'm scared to sew men's shirts...but I think I'm just scared to sew shirts in general. At least for men, there aren't any bust darts to fiddle with. But I've come to the conclusion that unless I really try to come clean and practice sewing shirts, I'm omitting (or avoiding) learning and improving some basic sewing skills. In one shirt, I can learn how to sew a:<br />
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<li style="text-align: left;">Collar</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Collar stand</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Front placket</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Set buttonholes</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Cuff placket</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Cuff</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Set-in sleeves</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Patch pocket</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">French seams</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Hand-basting</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Interfacing placement</li>
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I have finally improved on the collar and collar stand now. After making a couple of vests, and unsuccessful shirts, I feel like I know what I need to look for in a good design and pattern. But before I could tackle a shirt, I really needed to test some patterns. This could require more than one muslin. (Sad but true.)<br />
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Here is an iffy men's pattern to start...at least for size 44 anyway. I note "iffy" because I can be pretty bad at reading pattern instructions when I'm tired. I want to err on my clumsy side. But this pattern had a lot of issues for me. I think that poor sewing instructions is equally as bad as poorly drafted patterns. In more Vogue Patterns that I'd like to count, I have found this to be the case. Vogue V8759 was no exception. I'd like to hear if others had problems too.<br />
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The collar stand didn't fit the neck well. I had to trim it back nearly an inch to make it flush. The ease that they said it had, really didn't seem to exist. It said there was a four inch ease. But it really didn't measure out that way. The sleeve doesn't feel right in the shoulders. Even though it "looks" okay, it doesn't feel correct when on. It seems to pull at the back armhole. I had my brother-in-law, who is three sizes smaller try it on, and he still felt like the shoulders were uncomfortable. This men's shirt is on my female dress form...so disregard the feminine silhouette.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No buttons yet. I might turn this into a work shirt for myself. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are French seams in the back, but they are difficult to see in the photo.</td></tr>
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One of the key pattern requirements I want is a different collar and stand for different sizes. I think when all the sizes are printed into one pattern piece, fit can be become a problem. I have difficulty cutting the exact size on those tiny size lines that are squeezed into corners. Does anyone else have this problem? Patterns where there are size-specific patterns make for better matching, and there is less room for error. This is one reason why I like StyleArc Patterns.<br />
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This Vogue Pattern was scrapped.<br />
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This is an excellent men's shirt pattern. I mean EXCELLENT. Not only did Simplicity give me separate and specific sizes for the collar. I found the instructions very clear. Also, many industrial sewing techniques were included into the instructions. If you want to pick up some good professional sewing tips...make this shirt. It is also true to size.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I want to mention that I have been happy with many Simplicity Pattern results as compared to other patterns.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This muslin may go to my eldest son, since he has much longer arms than my hubby.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Placket instructions looked intimidating, but after careful reading and following...it turned out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Careful to match up the cuff pleats to the cuff size though. I folded it wrong on one sleeve,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">and the cuff size was off. But that was a user error, and not the pattern.</span></div>
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I am still in the muslin stage for this shirt. The Simplicity pattern was a great fit overall, but it had not been tailored to my husband yet. Once I get that out of the way, and create a second muslin. Yes, you heard me, a second muslin. I sewed this linen shirt in a 44, and although it fit him in the waist, it was slightly tight in the collar, sleeves were too long, and the shoulders too broad. My hubby has a thick neck, narrow shoulders, short arms, and a large waist.<br />
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It the pattern alterations are successful, I will only have to do two muslins. But I'm not going to hold my breath. I can't wait to cut into some beautiful shirting fabric I got at the Robert Talbott outlet. I also have Robert Talbott silk fabric for men's ties. That's another project that's happening soon. Stay tuned everyone...and happy sewing!<br />
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The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-2511350719923480722015-04-01T18:16:00.000-07:002015-04-01T18:16:41.130-07:00Making a Copy of My Stepmother's Favorite PantsMy stepmother lives in Hong Kong, and turned 96 years old this year. She is healthy, alert, and free of meds. She has lived a very unusual life compared to mine. I am amazed at her survival abilities, and her ingenuity. My stepmother never went to school, and is barely able to read except a few words. With this disadvantage, she still managed to learn how to memorize bus routes, and do basic math. She also knows how to repair stools, cook precisely, and sew her own clothes. (Just to name a few...)<br />
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On my sister's last trip to Hong Kong, she brought home an old pair of cotton pants that my stepmother made completely by hand. This includes the measuring, cutting, and hand stitching. My sister gave me the task of copying these favorite pants of hers, and creating a new pair.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My stepmother's original handstitched pants.</td></tr>
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To the left of her pants is red elastic she used as a drawstring. At the waist, my stepmother left an opening where she could pull the elastic through to adjust her waist size. By using elastic, it made for more comfort and customization. The pant looked simple enough to transfer.<br />
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A while back, I created a large, long cork board to use for transferring ready-to-wear clothes into paper patterns. Here is the board, which fits nicely on my small fold out table.<br />
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I placed a large tissue paper underneath the pants, and used push pins to hold the pants steady. I took a sharp dowel, which has a rather large point, and poked little holes around the outline of the pants.<br />
I only had to do one pant leg. Then I added seam allowances.<br />
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My stepmother's pants do not have side seams. So the side seams are placed on the fold. Basically, there's only three lines to stitch to piece it together: the front and back of the seat, and the crotch line. Pretty brilliant design huh? She pretty much perfected it after 30 or 40 years of sewing these pants.<br />
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Here's my pattern all sewn up. I used a cotton stretch poplin. It is slightly heavier, and great for cool Summer wear, and it gets pretty hot and humid in Hong Kong. These are similar to Kung Fu pants which have a wide crotch. These allow for a lot of movement and stretch. Squatting is a common resting pose.<br />
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Close-up of the tie in the front. I created a similar elastic waistband, except I attached the same cotton fabric to the end of the elastic piece. The cotton fabric is sewn together, so the strap never gets lost in the pants.<br />
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See how the strap is one complete loop, and she never worries about losing it in the wash?<br />
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I created button holes on the inside waist to pull the tie/elastic through. I also secured the elastic at center back so the strap does not slide around as much.<br />
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I think it turned out pretty good for my first try. I might copy this pattern and make a pair for myself. They look really comfy.<br />
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Here's my stepmother...at 96 trying to smile with her mouth full. Happy sewing everyone!<br />
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-5812904798679454592015-03-30T21:01:00.000-07:002015-03-30T21:01:39.067-07:00Spring Cleaning 2015 & Pattern Pattern Everywhere!Keeping my room tidy was particularly difficult last year while studying full-time for my board exam. With barely enough free time for my projects, keeping the space clean became a low priority. Up until yesterday, I had the bulk of my stash sitting on every available table space so I could see everything. After a year of semi-neglect, and a lot more stash, quality time spent on organization was long overdue. I don't mean just sweeping the floors, dusting, and putting things away. I mean pulling everything out, and then re-sorting.<br />
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Up until this month, I had what I considered an average to low collection of patterns. I have been stumped with what to make because I had more fabric than actual pattern choices. I realize now that it should really be the reverse. </div>
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These are my original pattern containers that I now have categorized by type. The left box is filled with dress patterns. The blue striped box on the right are separates, costumes, men's, and accessories (basically, all the other categories). Before yesterday, I had all my patterns crammed into this shelf space. It was a mess.<br />
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I found these IKEA storage boxes on my top shelf, and realized they were completely empty! Since these were solid, I made labels to help me sort them in the future. The lidded boxes made stacking a breeze, not to mention tidy.\The green box above is for jacket patterns, and the red box is for odd-sized patterns like my Folkwear, StyleArc, downloaded Burda, Eva Dress, and random Indie patterns. </div>
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One of the really difficult things about using a lot of patterns is what to do with the patterns when I'm done. I would be interested in knowing what others are doing. I keep telling myself that I might use them again, and I think for patterns I really, really love, I should transfer them to tag board so they can be a part of my permanent collection. But that is a project I have not attempted, even though I have a small roll of tag board ready for use. My current used-pattern drawers are full. My next project is sorting through these and throwing out patterns I don't like.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These drawers are filled to the brim with used patterns.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cFHfWR1L3Vs/VRoTcgM2yMI/AAAAAAAAIiQ/KaTIxdM630A/s1600/IMG_20150330_143658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cFHfWR1L3Vs/VRoTcgM2yMI/AAAAAAAAIiQ/KaTIxdM630A/s1600/IMG_20150330_143658.jpg" height="237" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Used patterns on top of those white drawers. It's difficult to store without folding them down to smaller pieces. </td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ILgz2yI2JyM/VRoTcsitb0I/AAAAAAAAIiQ/U_1a5t5uJj8/s1600/IMG_20150330_143726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ILgz2yI2JyM/VRoTcsitb0I/AAAAAAAAIiQ/U_1a5t5uJj8/s1600/IMG_20150330_143726.jpg" height="237" width="320" /></a></div>
I bought this gift wrap storage container on sale at Joanns, and it's long and wide enough to fit all those taped-together downloaded patterns. It's already mostly full, so I have to start throwing some of these patterns out. </div>
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I repurposed my extra clear shoe boxes for storing notions a couple of years ago. But I didn't really do a good job sorting out all the notions into categories. Items were scattered across boxes, causing me to waste time digging through several boxes for items I needed. My zippers are now all in one box, bias binding in another, and so on...</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cvQrpAdE3Fs/VRjha6VhSJI/AAAAAAAAIeA/1FlDl6Tt37o/s1600/IMG_20150329_140056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cvQrpAdE3Fs/VRjha6VhSJI/AAAAAAAAIeA/1FlDl6Tt37o/s1600/IMG_20150329_140056.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></div>
Even after sorting and labeling each container, I think I could separate items out further. For example, I could go through the buttons and separate them out by size. I'll let you know if that happens.<br />
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Here's a picture of my more organized shelf. Even though it doesn't look less cluttered, everything is a lot more accessible. </div>
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Here's an example of narrowing down my notions to a specific category by task. I placed all my hemming supplies in a single bin. This included fusibles, lace, and any other task-specific tool. These are items I use really often, and spend lots of time looking for in bins.<br />
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Since purchasing my new Juki, having a convenient place for all the feet accessories was a problem. I like to use the extension table, and the storage space is in the regular pull-out table. I emptied everything, and placed all the feet in a small rubber container. Up until today, I had the feet scattered around the table, and inside the extension bin. </div>
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My needs shift with my sewing skills. As I'm utilizing more complex sewing methods, my need to have tools scattered across different areas of my room become very important. I was worried about the number of scissors I owned, but now, they are just enough to have at every work station. I need some identical tools as well as project-specific ones. </div>
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This art caddy was originally at my cutting table. I found that the deep and wide bins did not really hold all my cutting, marking, and measuring tools well. But it is a perfect caddy for my ironing station where my needed tools are taller and bulkier. The similar items are scissors, chalk and tape, but I have found that I like to do a lot of hand basting, collar or corner turning, as well as ironing. With everything organized mostly in the caddy, it makes it easier to move it around the ironing board. I replaced the pink caddy with this popular desk organizer.</div>
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I opted for this little spinning number over the art-specific ones because I don't need to store markers. I prefer having more tiny trays for the small, hard-to-store tools. I use lots of clips to hold pattern pieces for example. I also like various chalk and marking pens visible.<br />
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This is another view of my spinning tray. I remember donating this very item a few years back before I started sewing again because I found it cluttered up my office desk. I am not suggesting that we should keep everything we own. But many office supplies I used to own could be great storage now. </div>
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Another item that I never regretted buying was a simple tall basket from TJ Maxx to hold all my rolls of fabric, paper, and miscellaneous vertical supplies. This bin keeps all these items in one corner without tipping over, and the bottoms clean from dust.</div>
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My IKEA shelves got a slight adjustment after repeatedly digging around for my interfacing, lining, and muslin fabrics. I decided once and for all that I needed to have all these items visible, and roughly organized at all times. I use some bit of these materials for every sewing project. I took a shelf out of the top, and moved it into the open shelf section where its at arms reach. </div>
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By eliminating one of the top shelves, I created more room for thicker and bulkier fabric inside the top cupboard. The third shelf was often too high for me to see or organize the stash. It ended up being a space I rarely used.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">I store my most frequently used knits and cottons here. Here's a picture of the cabinet now.</span></td></tr>
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A few feet away from my sewing studio, in the second and bigger half of the barn sits a china cabinet. I sold the matching table and chairs during one of my many moves, but no one wanted the cabinet. My don't have room for it now, so it's been relegated to storage. With its glass doors, it's a perfect storage unit for some of my fabric stash. I've still got more stash that's hidden under tables around my sewing studio. I don't judge either...</div>
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My sewing area is an ongoing organization project. The re-sorting of thread, bobbins, and re-tidying of the tools tray which houses everything I need for the machines will never end. If I do not clean regularly...usually after every sewing project, I find it difficult to be efficient. Here is what my table looks like as of today. It might look different next week!</div>
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This sewing table is crowded! If I had a choice, I would love to have about a foot more space between each machine. My sister visited this week, and we shared this sewing space. Let's just say, we bumped into each other a lot. Behind the three major machines are two backup machines in the far corner. They are there because I don't have any other place to store them. But I'm considering relocating them into one of the shelves as soon as I sew some of my stash down. That might not happen for a while...or never. My stash tend to multiply and grow with very little effort. I need stash contraceptives...</div>
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If you want to see how much more stuff I have now compared to before...check out my previous blog entry on my sewing room re-org in April 2013 <a href="http://sewingonmykitchentable.blogspot.com/2013/04/sewing-room-update-better-organization.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>. It's two years...and much fabric shopping, including trips to Asia later, I'm still busting at the seams. This little Spring cleaning took me nearly six hours. But I did it leisurely, and enjoyed every minute of it. Happy sewing!</div>
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The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-33607060502421789762015-03-13T21:31:00.000-07:002015-03-13T21:32:34.950-07:00Knitted Six-Point Tee - A Not-So-Spring SweaterThis was a super easy and very well-written knit pattern by Cathy Carron. I read from another reviewer on Ravelry that it only took her three days to complete the project. I'm a slow knitter, so it took me closer to two weeks. This was also my first top-down knit sweater. Surprisingly, I didn't make any mistakes! I was attracted to this pattern because I'm going through a Raglan sleeve phase. I also thought this design had a bit of Asian flare.<br />
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If you are interested in the pattern, you can get it <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/six-point-tee" target="_blank">HERE</a> on Ravelry. I used the exact same yarn that the author recommended. It's a bulky cotton Rowan Yarn which might be discontinued now. I ordered my supply from an online store in the UK called Deramones. I don't know if I can wear this in a California Spring. The weight of the sweater felt suffocating. Even though I really love the design, I dislike wearing the yarn. I might make it again using wool.<br />
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I considered making a matching skirt, but gave up the idea because the only style I felt would work was some sort of ballerina-esque, gathered full skirt in light cotton. Wouldn't that look just fabulous? Except for one thing...I look horrible in gathered, pleated, or dirndl skirts. They all make me look 20 pounds heavier. So for now, it's going to sit indefinitely on my sweater shelf. Sigh.<br />
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Here are photos of the sweater in Interweave's Knit Wear, where the original pattern was published. The little eyelets on my sweater were smaller. I think my tension ended up tighter even though I tested the gauge beforehand. Don't you think the sample sweater looks much lighter?<br />
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Happy knitting!</div>
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The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-81880151043205247362015-03-10T18:23:00.000-07:002015-03-10T18:23:31.989-07:00Rowe's Tunic Dress - StyleArcNorthern California weather is erratic. We can switch between wearing flip flops and fleece-lined shoes in the same week. The only thing we don't wear these days are rain boots. This teeter tottering of temperature (ranging from freezing to 75 degrees fahrenheit) has allowed me to sew garments covering three seasons: late Winter, Spring, and early Summer.<br />
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This new dress is another StyleArc number. I didn't bother with a muslin (tricky I know), especially since the last pant pattern came out a couple sizes too small. It's not really the fault of the pattern or designer. It was my choice to not use the recommended stretch fabrics and thus lose all the ease. I'll report on those pants a little later. <br />
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So here's the pattern... It doesn't look like a lot of ease, and my fabric of choice doesn't have a lot of stretch... But I am darn set on using it.<br />
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Now look at my dress... It came out pretty close to the pattern style, and this is after I added quite a bit of ease to the dress (see bottom pictures for pattern adjustments).</div>
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I used a combination of four types of fabric: a lovely fleece meshed lace...yes, you heard me correctly. Let me repeat: fleece meshed with lace! It is freaking gorgeous. There's some stretch, but not nearly as much as a jersey. For the sleeve and neck and arm trim, I used a silver-speckled stretch cotton I picked up at Gorgeous Fabrics. The other fabric can't be seen until I turn the dress around to the back.<br />
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No...this is not the front, although, in a pinch, I guess it could be...it's the back with a silk organza backed ivory lace insert (another Gorgeous Fabrics find). The back image is a little wonky... Here's a close-up.<br />
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When a pattern says it wants a stretch fabric it means using a semi-woven isn't going to work...elementary. I knew this going into the project, but trying to figure out the exact ease is a bit tricky. All I can say is measure, measure, measure! Treating this fleece like a woven was best, but it's really bulky. I decided two inches for bulk, and then another three inches in the front piece for my tummy. I know it sounds like a lot, but we're converting a fit for jersey into a thick woven fabric here.<br />
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Here's how I modified the pattern... I added side ease, and then the front panel.<br />
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Creating ease in the front might have turned it into an A-line...I was a bit worried about that. I took the lazy route and decided against making any drastic style changed to the neck line or side seams by slashing up to the very edge of the neckline, but not cutting it through. This is a common slash and spread method for creating A-line styles. But I didn't do it to the back, since my weight sits in the front. I knew the bulkiness of the fabric was going to hide any issues. Perhaps this was not the best design choice, and adding more to the side seams would have been best...but I still wanted a semi-fitted look.<br />
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If anyone else decides to make a change to side seams, make sure you "true" any changes by matching the sides against each other.<br />
See here...<br />
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Stack the two paper pattern pieces together as if you were going to pin them for sewing, and match the edges. This is how you true patterns. This a pretty vital step that I have forgotten to do in the past when I'm altering patterns. I have started "trueing" all my patterns these days, whether I make changes or not. I have found that errors abound and it's better to know beforehand that piece A is not matched up to piece B. I recently had this happen with a collar. It's a painful realization.<br />
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For once I had a lot of fabric choices for this pattern. I don't condone buying fabric unnecessarily...I mean, just buying on a whim without a project in mind. It can be a waste of money...but I know we ALL do it right? As embarrassed as I am as of late of my stash size, I love going into it and finding gems to create something unique. Sigh...<br />
<br />
Happy sewing!<br />
<br />
<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-68577364224539767952015-03-09T01:06:00.000-07:002015-03-09T01:06:52.609-07:00My $200 SweatshirtYou're probably wondering why this simple velour top costs $200. You see...when I finished sewing the main pieces, I decided I wanted some bias binding for the neck, and I was too impatient to make my own using the same fabric, especially since it curled like no one's business. This meant I would need to use fusible interfacing to control the curl before I could measure and create the binding. It was entirely too much work for a little neckline. Soooo....long story short, I set out to order some binding online. In case you're wondering, I have not been able to find a source for velour or velvet binding in the US.<br />
<br />
After a couple of Google searches, McCulloch and Wallis, a fabric store from the UK popped up. They were having a blowout sale on trim because they're moving shop, and I went a little nuts when I realized the sale binding was about 25 cents a meter. Six Kilos later, I forgot how much shipping could run after the exchange rate. I think the shipping was actually more than the cost of the binding. Shush...don't tell my husband. I could have NOT ordered it, but they didn't quote my shipping cost at checkout. So I was clueless. (Yoda voice), emailed they did...two days later. Shocked by the cost was I.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EDcP9IjBx24/VPzhpONvvaI/AAAAAAAAH2s/eXUfWEvXiCw/s1600/IMG_20150308_161838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EDcP9IjBx24/VPzhpONvvaI/AAAAAAAAH2s/eXUfWEvXiCw/s1600/IMG_20150308_161838.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The irony of course is that the binding was not even a close match. But it's passable I guess.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I know...after looking at all this money spent, I could have gone out and bought all kinds of fabric to make this binding. Well...yes and no. Yes...yes...yes...I could have. But in reality, no...no...no...I probably wouldn't have unless I was under some major sewing pressure. It's not my favorite project. I rather cut corners here than in the actual sewing. So what did I get for all that money (mostly the cost of shipping)? Here's my smorgasbord of trim...satins, linens, cottons, velvets, velour, polyester, organza, and other stuff mixed in for good measure... There are several hundred meters of delectable trim here.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tRZzbhcwLD0/VPzh9Wrm8PI/AAAAAAAAH20/MXVud7GQgLA/s1600/IMG_20150306_135149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tRZzbhcwLD0/VPzh9Wrm8PI/AAAAAAAAH20/MXVud7GQgLA/s1600/IMG_20150306_135149.jpg" height="296" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mixture of bias binding, zippers, and lacy elastics (for future knickers project).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qJGMSSeFvmg/VPzh9ZjInFI/AAAAAAAAH20/zTrEd4XQjAQ/s1600/IMG_20150306_135211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qJGMSSeFvmg/VPzh9ZjInFI/AAAAAAAAH20/zTrEd4XQjAQ/s1600/IMG_20150306_135211.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty binding from China...not silk, but it's okay. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QaGuUqERxkg/VPzh9SDxBkI/AAAAAAAAH20/XtPr4CmOPBo/s1600/IMG_20150306_135227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QaGuUqERxkg/VPzh9SDxBkI/AAAAAAAAH20/XtPr4CmOPBo/s1600/IMG_20150306_135227.jpg" height="296" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of my grab-bag binding. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Oh...I almost forgot. I used a McCall's Pattern for the sweatshirt, which was really a t-shirt with narrow sleeves, and fairly fitted. Of course I butchered the pattern, because I wanted shorter true raglan sleeves, and a looser fit. See the pattern...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wxSwTL6b8gc/VPziqR-2ONI/AAAAAAAAH28/CidXrTz0oRA/s1600/IMG_20150227_131241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wxSwTL6b8gc/VPziqR-2ONI/AAAAAAAAH28/CidXrTz0oRA/s1600/IMG_20150227_131241.jpg" height="320" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even though my rendition looks nothing like it...I made the model's version E, sans the cuff and neck trim. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Onto other stuff...<br />
<br />
You know that bit that Ellen Degeneres does on her show about Epic or Fail home videos? Today I'm showing two sewing room gadgets...<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
EPIC</h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Handi-BOB</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1yoWBDTtcxk/VPQltRaM16I/AAAAAAAAHws/Wd4ZtFw4HDE/s1600/IMG_20150301_200757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1yoWBDTtcxk/VPQltRaM16I/AAAAAAAAHws/Wd4ZtFw4HDE/s1600/IMG_20150301_200757.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ggjFzybJbbs/VPQltZnBqwI/AAAAAAAAHws/TvXT4eO-qfY/s1600/IMG_20150301_200640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ggjFzybJbbs/VPQltZnBqwI/AAAAAAAAHws/TvXT4eO-qfY/s1600/IMG_20150301_200640.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<div>
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<div>
My bobbins always run amuck...no matter how much time I spend winding up the threads back and popping them into the bobbin box, nothing helps. This little bobbin gadget solves two problems...matching my thread and keeping these little guys intact. I bought them from Sewing Machine Plus Online when I picked up some extra feet for my new Juki F600. They are very reasonably priced. You can also get a pack of 18 for $7.95 from Amazon on Prime (free shipping if you're a Prime member). See them <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Handi-Bobs-HB18-stores-bobbin-thread/dp/B0038RN4OG#" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</div>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
FAIL </h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Sidewinder</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xcys3NHJaD4/VPStZZZ3EgI/AAAAAAAAHw8/3nLIX6abTEA/s1600/IMG_20150301_201123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xcys3NHJaD4/VPStZZZ3EgI/AAAAAAAAHw8/3nLIX6abTEA/s1600/IMG_20150301_201123.jpg" height="320" width="237" /></a></div>
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This is the Sidewinder...another bobbin-related gadget. The spring broke off after one use. I repaired it, and then it snapped off at record speed across the room. It's hard to believe the whole machine's usability is based on a wire the size of a paper clip. This piece of plastic costs $30 at Joann's. I got it cheaper with a coupon, and lost the receipt so I couldn't return it. I could have gotten four spools of thread for what I wasted on this. Someone recommend me one that works...please! Don't write me and say..."I have a SideWinder and it works great." That will just make me hate this one more. Maybe it was produced on a Friday or a Monday...whatever day, it was junk.<br />
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Happy sewing!</div>
The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-2685700151753226352015-03-02T00:26:00.000-08:002015-03-02T02:08:55.856-08:00Winter Into Spring Wear Tunic<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ffa7i9aA8ZU/VPP_JMl5hWI/AAAAAAAAHvs/N8ACKhKd014/s1600/IMG_20150227_122922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ffa7i9aA8ZU/VPP_JMl5hWI/AAAAAAAAHvs/N8ACKhKd014/s1600/IMG_20150227_122922.jpg" height="640" width="473" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabric from FABMO. An unknown taupe wool-tweed blend, with tiny pastel specks.<br />I picked up this five-yard piece at a sale last year for $20. Bargain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fi9hHU7gaLc/VPQRTbG58GI/AAAAAAAAHwA/m939XPi-Tlw/s1600/IMG_20150227_123335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fi9hHU7gaLc/VPQRTbG58GI/AAAAAAAAHwA/m939XPi-Tlw/s1600/IMG_20150227_123335.jpg" height="320" width="237" /></a>After weeks of sitting close to 70-degrees (fahrenheit), we suddenly dropped down to freezing and even had a day of blessed rain. The cold spell incentified me into sewing something warm.<br />
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At a quick glance, this Vogue pattern looked like any standard tunic. But it is far from a Plain Jane top. I was originally attracted to its design because it had a similar smock feel that I fancy so much from my Japanese pattern books. As I moved through the sewing steps, I started to realize this tunic was filled with many design details seldom found in Very Easy labeled sewing patterns. Don't let the few pattern pieces fool you. I wouldn't recommend this project to a beginner.<br />
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I morphed the short sleeve with the collar because I wanted to wear it over blouses and shirts, almost like a light wool jacket.<br />
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Wool tweed is often itchy, and this blend was no exception. To combat this, I added some really soft polyester charmeuse that I picked up ages ago at Stone Mountain onto the collar facing, and part of the neck opening. It's a nice contrast if I decide to open the collar.<br />
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<a href="http://media.coletterie.com/2010/09/sullivans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://media.coletterie.com/2010/09/sullivans.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
The fabric was extremely thin and slippery. I used Colette's recommendation by spraying some Sullivan's Fabric Stabilizer to stiffen the facing. You can read her article <a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/sullivans-spray-stabilizer" target="_blank">HERE</a>.<br />
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I bought three bottles of Sullivan's for silk projects but have been too scared to use it. I am glad I tested it out on the polyester silk. It worked like a charm. I also fused woven interfacing to add more bulk.<br />
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Here's the tunic with an open collar...<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j9xWR7suTXc/VPQSlLXP29I/AAAAAAAAHwI/0gX8szMElnI/s1600/IMG_20150227_123022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j9xWR7suTXc/VPQSlLXP29I/AAAAAAAAHwI/0gX8szMElnI/s1600/IMG_20150227_123022.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></div>
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The pockets were a bit of a pain to sew, not because they're tricky, but because the fabric was difficult to pre-crease. Creating a mitered corner was challenging. I almost gave up, but glad that I persevered, because the pockets are super cute and useful. The other two design details include the back dart, and the curved hem.<br />
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The dart looks so basic, but after it was stitched, I thought it was elegant on such a simple design.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kIiYGjvV6w/VPQTYetngTI/AAAAAAAAHwQ/zPfqwkK_k3A/s1600/IMG_20150227_123112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9kIiYGjvV6w/VPQTYetngTI/AAAAAAAAHwQ/zPfqwkK_k3A/s1600/IMG_20150227_123112.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></div>
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The curved hem could be tricky, and since the front pockets were such a bear to tackle, I feared a smooth hem. The instructions said to do a double fold narrow hem. Instead, I used a technique I learned while sewing the curved Kimono sleeve on my Satsuki Dress from Victory Patterns.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4cZoaHddUXs/VPQTYXOPnFI/AAAAAAAAHwQ/pj2zcX6SZR8/s1600/IMG_20150227_123125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4cZoaHddUXs/VPQTYXOPnFI/AAAAAAAAHwQ/pj2zcX6SZR8/s1600/IMG_20150227_123125.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></div>
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To accomplish a smooth curved hem, it's best to stitch a longer straight stitch halfway between the final hem mark and the edge of the fabric. So if your hem is one inch, then stitch a straight stitch around the curve at half an inch. I tied one end of the stitch and then created a gentle ruffle around the curve. This allowed me to ease the fabric into the curve without any bulk, similar to easing a sleeve into the armhole. It's really a lot faster this way, especially with unruly fabric.<br />
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The last bit were the closures for the collar. I think adding a bold decorative button could be used here, but the snap (which were recommended in the instructions) left a cleaner look. I don't know about other sewists but I've always had difficulty making sure the second half of the snap matched up to the first stitched half. I figured out a quick-and-easy method by using tailor's chalk.<br />
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1. Stitch the first half of the snap at your preferred location.<br />
2. Then snap the second half of the snap onto your stitched half.<br />
3. Rub some chalk on the second half of the snap, and then carefully close the opening. The chalk mark should now be on the other side of where your other half of the snap should be sewn. See pics...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zEP2qrf2I9U/VPQWtnROdPI/AAAAAAAAHwc/nk7XmbKG4OM/s1600/IMG_20150227_120216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zEP2qrf2I9U/VPQWtnROdPI/AAAAAAAAHwc/nk7XmbKG4OM/s1600/IMG_20150227_120216.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rub the chalk generously over the second half of the snap.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gmaMtoshY2c/VPQWtqoAonI/AAAAAAAAHwc/5wl1EN9_M1o/s1600/IMG_20150227_120233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gmaMtoshY2c/VPQWtqoAonI/AAAAAAAAHwc/5wl1EN9_M1o/s1600/IMG_20150227_120233.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make sure you push down with some pressure to transfer the chalk to the fabric. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jldUgWuBRdc/VPQWtpzsZ4I/AAAAAAAAHwc/2v8roY3-ArA/s1600/IMG_20150227_120305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jldUgWuBRdc/VPQWtpzsZ4I/AAAAAAAAHwc/2v8roY3-ArA/s1600/IMG_20150227_120305.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's not a strong chalk mark, but good enough for placement. It might not work with all fabrics, <br />so consider using different colors as well. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Voila! All snapped in for the rest of Winter and hopefully into a lovely wet Spring! Happy sewing!</div>
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7210016266418338196.post-79190762686466373182015-02-09T13:30:00.000-08:002015-02-09T13:30:58.036-08:00New Sewing Machine for 2015Due to the Bernina buttonhole debacle, I decided to take it in for service at another repair place (not my local Bernina dealer). This is when I found out there was nothing wrong with the electrical board, and that the buttonhole issue is most likely in the sensor foot. It was supposedly repaired by my local Bernina dealer...so he said. I called another Bernina dealer and asked about a replacement foot. This was over a week ago, and I heard nothing from them. So much for customer service. I did find that it was available on Bernina's main website, and the cost was about $200. Wow.<br />
<br />
The real question I faced was, how happy am I with my Bernina these days? Not very I guess... After sewing with my Juki for the past few years, I have become to rely on my Bernina less and less. I know it's 25+ years old...but I never expected to be disappointed with its sewing quality. Maybe I just sewed that machine to the ground...or did I just outgrow it? Maybe more of the later. I will tell you one thing though, had the other Bernina dealer called me back with ANY information whatsoever, I would have hightailed it down to their store, and probably would have bought a new Bernina. The idea of owning a new machine was burning a hole in my pocket. But they lost that sale.<br />
<br />
I decided it was time...but I had a few questions. Did I need to spend a lot to get all the features I wanted? Do I really need a machine to last another 25 years? It might have been true back then when Swiss machines were made in Switzerland, but most of the quality machines are no longer made at their headquartered countries. I found out that Pfaff is made in Shanghai, Bernina's are made in Thailand, and Viking and Singer are both owned by the same "holding" company as Pfaff. Janome bought Elna, which is probably a good thing for Elna. Juki home machines are mainly made in China. If this is the case for sewing machines, then does it really matter if I'm paying $6,000 or $1,000 for a machine with similar features? I think not. I know I would feel a lot better about being disappointed in a less expensive machine than one that cost as much as a car.<br />
<br />
Enter...the new addition to my sewing room...the Juki Exceed F600, and also made in China. For $1100 out-the-door, it was a fair price, and money spent at a local dealer. I will admit that if I actually liked my local Bernina dealer, the final outcome might have been different and $2,000 more out of my pocket. Several machines could have fit the bill here...Babylock, Janome, Pfaff, and Bernina all had models that had more or less of everything I wanted. After narrowing down features, I just went for the best price. BTW, Bernina was the most expensive for the least amount of features. But it doesn't mean I won't ever get another Bernina. Just not right now.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OXdGIgGfyVU/VNkQvlZV2BI/AAAAAAAAHls/BBD2ZiTvVLc/s1600/IMG_20150208_135958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OXdGIgGfyVU/VNkQvlZV2BI/AAAAAAAAHls/BBD2ZiTvVLc/s1600/IMG_20150208_135958.jpg" height="296" width="400" /></a></div>
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Since opening this machine and setting it up (where my Bernina used to be), I have played with the computerized stitch functions, made some buttonholes, and learned to use the auto thread, and wind a bobbin. I've also ordered a rolled hem and invisible feet, which I was surprised did not come with the machine. But a smooth foot (similar to teflon presser foot) did. I also ordered a set of 50 additional bobbins, to add to the measly four that came standard.<br />
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Everything about this machine feels a bit flimsy. Everything is plastic. But the big plastic case looks sturdy, and I do love the gigantic extension table as a standard accessory. Basically, this machine is well thought out, and has everything on my wishlist. The only thing missing is a bobbin sensor...a feature I liked on the Pfaff machines. But I'm not a quilter, and rarely run out of thread with a full bobbin for garment sewing. It helps that the door to the drop in bobbin is clear plastic. But I also don't like that the door is plastic and breakable? I basically can't drop or step on anything without risk.<br />
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The built-in embroidery stitches are not bad for machine stitched. Because there are a couple hundred stitches, it takes time to learn how to set them. But it's not impossible. Whew! I found a video tutorial on Youtube put out by Juki with some specific features and stitching options. It was helpful as an introduction, but I really want some good examples on how to apply some of the unique stitches to clothing construction. Most of the examples were designed for quilting. But if anyone is thinking of purchasing a Juki F600, viewing the video in advance might be helpful. You can view it <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtCDAzNgO8Q" target="_blank">HERE</a>. <br />
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Unfortunately, my local Juki dealer does not offer any training or support. They don't have anyone in-house to help. But they matched the cheapest online price I could find. I wouldn't have gotten support if I had bought the machine online either. At least they'll take it back for repair if needed. I want to encourage other sewists in my area to support this shop. I think they could have a real market for Juki machines for quilters if they updated their marketing. This is the shop website <a href="http://abetterdiscount.net/" target="_blank">HERE</a>.<br />
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Besides a new sewing machine, my 15+ year-old Rowenta iron finally died. I was surprised to find an upgraded Professional line still made in Germany. The new model is just like mine except this new one has a lot more steam and heats up faster. It's on sale at Target.com for $74.99, and more expensive at the actual Target store. I showed the cashier, and received a price adjustment and took it home for immediate use. Score! Happy Sewing!<br />
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<br />The Mad Diarieshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13861175841844183895noreply@blogger.com0