Spring Cleaning 2015 & Pattern Pattern Everywhere!

Keeping my room tidy was particularly difficult last year while studying full-time for my board exam. With barely enough free time for my projects, keeping the space clean became a low priority. Up until yesterday, I had the bulk of my stash sitting on every available table space so I could see everything. After a year of semi-neglect, and a lot more stash, quality time spent on organization was long overdue. I don't mean just sweeping the floors, dusting, and putting things away. I mean pulling everything out, and then re-sorting.

Up until this month, I had what I considered an average to low collection of patterns. I have been stumped with what to make because I had more fabric than actual pattern choices. I realize now that it should really be the reverse. 

These are my original pattern containers that I now have categorized by type. The left box is filled with dress patterns. The blue striped box on the right are separates, costumes, men's, and accessories (basically, all the other categories). Before yesterday, I had all my patterns crammed into this shelf space. It was a mess.

I found these IKEA storage boxes on my top shelf, and realized they were completely empty! Since these were solid, I made labels to help me sort them in the future. The lidded boxes made stacking a breeze, not to mention tidy.\The green box above is for jacket patterns, and the red box is for odd-sized patterns like my Folkwear, StyleArc, downloaded Burda, Eva Dress, and random Indie patterns. 

One of the really difficult things about using a lot of patterns is what to do with the patterns when I'm done. I would be interested in knowing what others are doing. I keep telling myself that I might use them again, and I think for patterns I really, really love, I should transfer them to tag board so they can be a part of my permanent collection. But that is a project I have not attempted, even though I have a small roll of tag board ready for use. My current used-pattern drawers are full. My next project is sorting through these and throwing out patterns I don't like.

These drawers are filled to the brim with used patterns.

Used patterns on top of those white drawers. It's difficult to store without folding them down to smaller pieces. 

I bought this gift wrap storage container on sale at Joanns, and it's long and wide enough to fit all those taped-together downloaded patterns. It's already mostly full, so I have to start throwing some of these patterns out. 

I repurposed my extra clear shoe boxes for storing notions a couple of years ago. But I didn't really do a good job sorting out all the notions into categories. Items were scattered across boxes, causing me to waste time digging through several boxes for items I needed. My zippers are now all in one box, bias binding in another, and so on...

Even after sorting and labeling each container, I think I could separate items out further. For example, I could go through the buttons and separate them out by size. I'll let you know if that happens.

Here's a picture of my more organized shelf. Even though it doesn't look less cluttered, everything is a lot more accessible. 

 Here's an example of narrowing down my notions to a specific category by task. I placed all my hemming supplies in a single bin. This included fusibles, lace, and any other task-specific tool. These are items I use really often, and spend lots of time looking for in bins.

Since purchasing my new Juki, having a convenient place for all the feet accessories was a problem. I like to use the extension table, and the storage space is in the regular pull-out table. I emptied everything, and placed all the feet in a small rubber container. Up until today, I had the feet scattered around the table, and inside the extension bin. 

My needs shift with my sewing skills. As I'm utilizing more complex sewing methods, my need to have tools scattered across different areas of my room become very important. I was worried about the number of scissors I owned, but now, they are just enough to have at every work station. I need some identical tools as well as project-specific ones. 

This art caddy was originally at my cutting table. I found that the deep and wide bins did not really hold all my cutting, marking, and measuring tools well. But it is a perfect caddy for my ironing station where my needed tools are taller and bulkier. The similar items are scissors, chalk and tape, but I have found that I like to do a lot of hand basting, collar or corner turning, as well as ironing. With everything organized mostly in the caddy, it makes it easier to move it around the ironing board. I replaced the pink caddy with this popular desk organizer.

I opted for this little spinning number over the art-specific ones because I don't need to store markers. I prefer having more tiny trays for the small, hard-to-store tools. I use lots of clips to hold pattern pieces for example. I also like various chalk and marking pens visible.

This is another view of my spinning tray. I remember donating this very item a few years back before I started sewing again because I found it cluttered up my office desk. I am not suggesting that we should keep everything we own. But many office supplies I used to own could be great storage now. 

Another item that I never regretted buying was a simple tall basket from TJ Maxx to hold all my rolls of fabric, paper, and miscellaneous vertical supplies. This bin keeps all these items in one corner without tipping over, and the bottoms clean from dust.

My IKEA shelves got a slight adjustment after repeatedly digging around for my interfacing, lining, and muslin fabrics. I decided once and for all that I needed to have all these items visible, and roughly organized at all times. I use some bit of these materials for every sewing project. I took a shelf out of the top, and moved it into the open shelf section where its at arms reach. 

By eliminating one of the top shelves, I created more room for thicker and bulkier fabric inside the top cupboard. The third shelf was often too high for me to see or organize the stash. It ended up being a space I rarely used.

I store my most frequently used knits and cottons here. Here's a picture of the cabinet now.

A few feet away from my sewing studio, in the second and bigger half of the barn sits a china cabinet. I sold the matching table and chairs during one of my many moves, but no one wanted the cabinet. My don't have room for it now, so it's been relegated to storage. With its glass doors, it's a perfect storage unit for some of my fabric stash. I've still got more stash that's hidden under tables around my sewing studio. I don't judge either...

My sewing area is an ongoing organization project. The re-sorting of thread, bobbins, and re-tidying of the tools tray which houses everything I need for the machines will never end. If I do not clean regularly...usually after every sewing project, I find it difficult to be efficient. Here is what my table looks like as of today. It might look different next week!

This sewing table is crowded! If I had a choice, I would love to have about a foot more space between each machine. My sister visited this week, and we shared this sewing space. Let's just say, we bumped into each other a lot. Behind the three major machines are two backup machines in the far corner. They are there because I don't have any other place to store them. But I'm considering relocating them into one of the shelves as soon as I sew some of my stash down. That might not happen for a while...or never. My stash tend to multiply and grow with very little effort. I need stash contraceptives...

If you want to see how much more stuff I have now compared to before...check out my previous blog entry on my sewing room re-org in April 2013 HERE. It's two years...and much fabric shopping, including trips to Asia later, I'm still busting at the seams. This little Spring cleaning took me nearly six hours. But I did it leisurely, and enjoyed every minute of it. Happy sewing!

Knitted Six-Point Tee - A Not-So-Spring Sweater

This was a super easy and very well-written knit pattern by Cathy Carron. I read from another reviewer on Ravelry that it only took her three days to complete the project. I'm a slow knitter, so it took me closer to two weeks. This was also my first top-down knit sweater. Surprisingly, I didn't make any mistakes! I was attracted to this pattern because I'm going through a Raglan sleeve phase. I also thought this design had a bit of Asian flare.

If you are interested in the pattern, you can get it HERE on Ravelry. I used the exact same yarn that the author recommended. It's a bulky cotton Rowan Yarn which might be discontinued now. I ordered my supply from an online store in the UK called Deramones. I don't know if I can wear this in a California Spring. The weight of the sweater felt suffocating. Even though I really love the design, I dislike wearing the yarn. I might make it again using wool.

I considered making a matching skirt, but gave up the idea because the only style I felt would work was some sort of ballerina-esque, gathered full skirt in light cotton. Wouldn't that look just fabulous? Except for one thing...I look horrible in gathered, pleated, or dirndl skirts. They all make me look 20 pounds heavier. So for now, it's going to sit indefinitely on my sweater shelf. Sigh.

Here are photos of the sweater in Interweave's Knit Wear, where the original pattern was published. The little eyelets on my sweater were smaller. I think my tension ended up tighter even though I tested the gauge beforehand. Don't you think the sample sweater looks much lighter?

Happy knitting!

Rowe's Tunic Dress - StyleArc

Northern California weather is erratic. We can switch between wearing flip flops and fleece-lined shoes in the same week. The only thing we don't wear these days are rain boots. This teeter tottering of temperature (ranging from freezing to 75 degrees fahrenheit) has allowed me to sew garments covering three seasons: late Winter, Spring, and early Summer.

This new dress is another StyleArc number. I didn't bother with a muslin (tricky I know), especially since the last pant pattern came out a couple sizes too small. It's not really the fault of the pattern or designer. It was my choice to not use the recommended stretch fabrics and thus lose all the ease. I'll report on those pants a little later.

So here's the pattern... It doesn't look like a lot of ease, and my fabric of choice doesn't have a lot of stretch... But I am darn set on using it.

Now look at my dress... It came out pretty close to the pattern style, and this is after I added quite a bit of ease to the dress (see bottom pictures for pattern adjustments).

I used a combination of four types of fabric: a lovely fleece meshed lace...yes, you heard me correctly. Let me repeat: fleece meshed with lace! It is freaking gorgeous. There's some stretch, but not nearly as much as a jersey. For the sleeve and neck and arm trim, I used a silver-speckled stretch cotton I picked up at Gorgeous Fabrics. The other fabric can't be seen until I turn the dress around to the back.

No...this is not the front, although, in a pinch, I guess it could be...it's the back with a silk organza backed ivory lace insert (another Gorgeous Fabrics find). The back image is a little wonky... Here's a close-up.

When a pattern says it wants a stretch fabric it means using a semi-woven isn't going to work...elementary. I knew this going into the project, but trying to figure out the exact ease is a bit tricky. All I can say is measure, measure, measure! Treating this fleece like a woven was best, but it's really bulky.  I decided two inches for bulk, and then another three inches in the front piece for my tummy. I know it sounds like a lot, but we're converting a fit for jersey into a thick woven fabric here.

Here's how I modified the pattern... I added side ease, and then the front panel.

Creating ease in the front might have turned it into an A-line...I was a bit worried about that. I took the lazy route and decided against making any drastic style changed to the neck line or side seams by slashing up to the very edge of the neckline, but not cutting it through. This is a common slash and spread method for creating A-line styles. But I didn't do it to the back, since my weight sits in the front. I knew the bulkiness of the fabric was going to hide any issues. Perhaps this was not the best design choice, and adding more to the side seams would have been best...but I still wanted a semi-fitted look.

If anyone else decides to make a change to side seams, make sure you "true" any changes by matching the sides against each other.
See here...

Stack the two paper pattern pieces together as if you were going to pin them for sewing, and match the edges. This is how you true patterns. This a pretty vital step that I have forgotten to do in the past when I'm altering patterns. I have started "trueing" all my patterns these days, whether I make changes or not. I have found that errors abound and it's better to know beforehand that piece A is not matched up to piece B. I recently had this happen with a collar. It's a painful realization.

For once I had a lot of fabric choices for this pattern. I don't condone buying fabric unnecessarily...I mean, just buying on a whim without a project in mind. It can be a waste of money...but I know we ALL do it right? As embarrassed as I am as of late of my stash size, I love going into it and finding gems to create something unique. Sigh...

Happy sewing!